Looking for proper (SAI) secondary air injection pump / plumbing delete information for 99’ 5.7L c1500

[A97obs]

I have a 99 suburban and a 98 c1500 both with 5.7 engines my 98’ pickup doesn’t have this
The 99’ suburban is from California now in Michigan and it has the (SAI) Secondary air injection pump junk and it went bad. Not paying for another don’t need it is there a write up on exactly what I need to keep’ remove’ or plug’ after I remove the tubes on the manifold ?
Is there a proper write up for the 95-99 5.7L and a block off plate kit that you can buy to block off the manifold’s ?
Do we leave the wire harnesses in place and just flash the PCM to delete the sai

I need that drive space for a second battery which is way more useful

Thanks in advance

 

[b454rat]

Check out Hewett something.com, can't remember the whole name but google should bring it up. I had a pump or valve or some BS go bad in the 08 Tundra I had. They make a bypass kit incase something fails, without spending more than purchase price of the truck. Pretty simple to install, and no more check engine light....

 

[A97obs]

What I’m trying to achieve is pretty known as doable bypassing smog emissions etc on a pretty much old school 350 Chevy even being a 99 is common
Secondary air injection pump sucks air and spits it into the exhaust manifolds it was just added to warm up the catalytic converter the first 40 to 60 seconds of starting vehicle. More problem than what it’s worth, and some 5.7 V8s only got them 80% of other Obs trucks didn’t . so seeing this air injection pump is new to me I’m pretty mechanical I do not want it there. I just wanna know what I need to /Physcically block off and remove propriety Specifically in a 95-99 c1500 engine bay with the 5.7 vortec.

 

[98sub1500]

I am currently trying to do this same thing. I have a 1998 gmc suburban k1500. i bought the part number 12574378 cover and went to bolt it up, it is too big. not sure how to proceed, i might try to fab my own covers but don't really want to go that route if i have a choice.

 

[Schurkey]

1. I've never understood the hate for AIR pumps. They don't take much power to run, they don't cause driveability issues unless the diverter valve sticks. There's essentially no downside to them.

2. There's no need to do ANYTHING with the exhaust manifolds. There's a one-way check valve on them already. Take the hose off of each one, let the check valve do it's thing. Done. This assumes that the tubing isn't rusted out, though. Some guys fold-over the steel tubing to positively seal the exhaust, others unscrew the tubing from the manifold, and cram in a brass plug.

3. Unbolt the engine-mounted pump, get a shorter belt to drive the rest of the accessories. Or remove the newer-style pump from it's brackets and tie up the harness nice 'n' neatly.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

1. I've never understood the hate for AIR pumps. They don't take much power to run, they don't cause driveability issues unless the diverter valve sticks. There's essentially no downside to them.

2. There's no need to do ANYTHING with the exhaust manifolds. There's a one-way check valve on them already. Take the hose off of each one, let the check valve do it's thing. Done. This assumes that the tubing isn't rusted out, though. Some guys fold-over the steel tubing to positively seal the exhaust, others unscrew the tubing from the manifold, and cram in a brass plug.

3. Unbolt the engine-mounted pump, get a shorter belt to drive the rest of the accessories. Or remove the newer-style pump from it's brackets and tie up the harness nice 'n' neatly.

These use the GM electric pumps like the LS. The dual belt driven air pumps, brackets and associated plumbing was a nightmare on my old 83 G20. That poor 305 took up as much of the engine bay as a 454.

 

[A97obs]

1. I've never understood the hate for AIR pumps. They don't take much power to run, they don't cause driveability issues unless the diverter valve sticks. There's essentially no downside to them.

2. There's no need to do ANYTHING with the exhaust manifolds. There's a one-way check valve on them already. Take the hose off of each one, let the check valve do it's thing. Done. This assumes that the tubing isn't rusted out, though. Some guys fold-over the steel tubing to positively seal the exhaust, others unscrew the tubing from the manifold, and cram in a brass plug.

3. Unbolt the engine-mounted pump, get a shorter belt to drive the rest of the accessories. Or remove the newer-style pump from it's brackets and tie up the harness nice 'n' neatly.

The need for me wasnt so much due to it being a use when it “works” or when it did . The need is I don’t live in the “compliant necessary state this truck was built in and I do not need these extras. this is for space for battery juice “extra battery” and clearing up the “engine bay” because I am doing a ton of custom work . Plus mine failed so why buy .
Plus The super small plastic vaccum line tubing from the firewall to the Air pump Across the engine is broken Also and I can’t source that plastic line anywhere .

So for removal /delete your stating if we remove the steel injection lines from the driver and pass manifold providing there is no rust and they come off without issue there will be “No leak”? They self seal with a check valve ?
At that point remove the pump and use a belt from a Non Air injection 95-99 c1500?

 

[A97obs]

These use the GM electric pumps like the LS. The dual belt driven air pumps, brackets and associated plumbing was a nightmare on my old 83 G20. That poor 305 took up as much of the engine bay as a 454.

Yes this is an Electric air pump housed right above the extra battery tray .Happens to be a California suburban “99 but now in Michigan for the remainder of its life .

It’s the A.I.R injection pump plumbing I want to delete on the manifolds but wasn’t sure if the exhaust manifold ports are wide open for “Leak” or if they “self seal “ if I remove these Air pump injection tubes off and away from the exhaust manifolds? Or would I need to fab some block off plates / or worse yet just swap to Non smog 5.7L manifolds which is a waist because my manifolds are rust free clean being from west coast

Alternatively I could keep it all OEM I guess and replace and relocate the AIR Pump with a bracket . I just neee the battery tray for a 2nd battery and it’s convenient to want to delete it all Since the pump failed plus I don’t want it there at all so … ehhh

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Yes this is an Electric air pump housed right above the extra battery tray .Happens to be a California suburban “99 but now in Michigan for the remainder of its life .

It’s the A.I.R injection pump plumbing I want to delete on the manifolds but wasn’t sure if the exhaust manifold ports are wide open for “Leak” or if they “self seal “ if I remove these Air pump injection tubes off and away from the exhaust manifolds? Or would I need to fab some block off plates / or worse yet just swap to Non smog 5.7L manifolds which is a waist because my manifolds are rust free clean being from west coast

Alternatively I could keep it all OEM I guess and replace and relocate the AIR Pump with a bracket . I just neee the battery tray for a 2nd battery and it’s convenient to want to delete it all Since the pump failed plus I don’t want it there at all so … ehhh

From memory I want to say that the LS1 block off plates fit.

LS EGR Exhaust Block Off Plate

As featured on Classic Truck’s Week to Wicked. Watch the transformation here! These EGR exhaust block-off plates are intended for use on non-pollution controlled, off-road vehicles only. For GM LS engines Hardware and O-ring are included Measures 1-3/4" center-to-center on bolt holes

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[A97obs]

One other factor and question? If one can successfully and does successfully remove the AIR pump and tubes and blocks off all the B.S

Any recommendations on what to do for the CEL light or Can the pcm be flashed to remove the codes for the Secondary air injection pump making it non existent in the computer ? Another words making the vehicle as if it’s just a Non Air injection pump 5.7 truck ?
Because the CEL light will and does stay on wether it’s not working or I remove AND unplug the harnesses