Just replaced master cylinder...breaks are rediculously spongy now...won't even stop

[ukiltmybrutha]

I just replaced my master cylinder due to a leaking reservoir grommet. I bled all 4 brakes in the following order:

right rear/left rear/right front/left front.

I noticed that no matter how much I tried to bleed the left front, no air would come out of the bleeder. I loosened the line and bled it that way...but that seems very shady to have to do that to me.

Also, I never bench bled the master. In all of my years of doing brakes I have never had to bench bleed anything. Gravity bleeding has always done the trick....and I figure even more so with help from my pumper.

I notice that below the newly replaced master cylinder, there is another unit with a bleeder screw on that as well. Do I have to bleed that unit (whatever it is) as well?

I don't have a manual yet, but was hoping that you all could PLEASE provide me with an exact procedure to bleed my brakes.

Thank you for your time!

 

[MIHELA]

There is a bleeder on the ABS unit. You remove the rubber cap and push in the little ball with a screwdriver until fluid starts coming out. Then the gravity bleed should work.

 

[firefighter_2319]

may want another person pump them up 4 or five time kinda slow then hold while you loosen the bleeders. or have the pedal up then loosen them then slowly push down. maybe you should bleed the master cylinder, that would be the way i would go to start with but see what mihela is talking about his may work as well first

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

Thanks....got the stuff to bypass the ABS unit and bought speed bleeders so I can do this solo. Still wondering why no fluid is coming out of the left front caliper. Any ideas on that? I plan on bleeding the new master too!

 

[91Bluestreak]

Bench bleed the master then bleed all four corners. I did this on 2 of my trucks and bench bleeding makes life so much easier. Speed bleeders are great to have aswell.

 

[DGA1]

Unless you bench bleed the master you might be there for a very, very, very, long time trying to get all the bubbles out of the system.

 

[MIHELA]

I replaced mine and never had to bench bleed it. I just had to get the air out of the ABS unit.

 

[Sparg93]

Unless you bench bleed the master you might be there for a very, very, very, long time trying to get all the bubbles out of the system.

+1 - you need to bench bleed that Master and then re-bleed all four lines.

If you try to "bench" bleed it while mounted, you will be there forever. And bench bleeding is really easy and can be done in a few minutes...the real pain is if you need to reflare the brake lines to get them to seal back on the master.

Once you bench bleed and then bleed the four corners, come back to us if you're still having problems with that left corner.

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

Hi everyone, really appreciate you helping me out so much. So I bench bled the master and bled all 4 again. All bleeders pushed out fluid. I also removed the RWAL. However, I still have the same problem I swapped out the master for.

Here it is:

When you press the brakes, there is a delay in stopping. Every time I press the brake pedal, billions of bubbles appear in the master cylinder and fluid shoots upwards like crazy. The pedal is also slow to return after being pressed. None of this happens until the vehicle turns on.

The booster is very loud. When you hit the brake with the vehicle idling, you can also hear the idle drop when the brake is pressed. My neighbor mechanic thinks the brake booster is bad.

Thoughts?

 

[///RAGMC]

Ive always have had issues with bleeding these trucks and the best way Ive found is to use a vacuum bleeder like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Fluid...0647256964&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr I bought one for under $30 from harbor frieght that works really well.http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html