Idle not right!!!

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popcorn501

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After installing my reman engine the idle wants to jump around a little. Not all the time and I'm getting a po171 and po174 code which says something about o2 sensors any ideas???
 

SAATR

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Sounds like a vacuum leak. Use some brake cleaner or carb/choke cleaner and spray around the base of the throttle body, intake manifold to head gasket, and all vacuum fittings. Not uncommon to have a vacuum leak on a fresh install.
 

popcorn501

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I tried spraying all around the intake and nothing. I put this engine in and it started doing this never done it with the old engine. The new engine came with an rv cam I'm thinking maybe that is the problem?? Any help would be great thanks.
 

SAATR

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The codes are essentially system too lean on both banks. You either have a fueling problem, a large exhaust leak ahead of BOTH O2 sensors, or a vacuum leak. Whatever the problem, the PCM cannot adjust the fuel trim enough to compensate for the problem. This leads to your next diagnostic steps, which will be to check for vacuum leaks and to verify fuel pressure. Checking for vacuum leaks requires few tools and almost no monetary investment, so it's one of the best places to start. It also nets results more often than not, which is why I suggested it first. On the Vortec motor (or any other MAF system) a "vacuum leak" could be considered any air entering the intake system downstream of the MAF, so you have to check the intake tube as well. If you are absolutely sure that you have checked and rechecked all vacuum lines, intake hoses, plenum and lower manifold mating surfaces, and sensor plugs, then move on to the fueling system. Check pressure and make sure you're within range ( can't remember the exact numbers). If low, pinch off the return line at the braid/rubber portion and see if the pressure comes into range. If it does, you either have a faulty regulator or a clogged fuel filter (if you haven't replaced it already). If it still doesn't come up, it's likely a pump issue.

If everything checks out, then a faulty MAF is possible. These tend to be expensive, so if you have a buddy that has a truck with the same motor, swap em and see if your problem goes away and his truck starts running poorly. If that happens, clean the MAF. If it still runs poorly, get a new one.
 

popcorn501

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Ok thanks. I clean the maf already and it didn't help any at all. The codes have went away and havnt come back. Not sure why as I havnt done anything.
 

popcorn501

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Is there a check valve somewhere in the fuel supply? It seems to bleed off after siting for a little bit.
 
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SAATR

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Is there a check valve somewhere in the fuel supply? It seems to bleed off after siting for a little bit.

Not really a check valve per se, but if all components in the system are functioning properly you shouldn't lose very much pressure. The troubleshooting steps for the fuel system listed above can help isolate a leak. If you clamp off the return line and it holds pressure, it's a regulator. If you clamp the feed and return lines and it still leaks, it could still be the regulator, but is more likely a stuck poppet. If you clamp both lines and it doesn't leak, but does when you release the clamp on the feed line, then it's a leak in the feed line (loose fitting, perforated line) or the pump module itself.

Remember that a small amount of pressure loss, say five to ten pounds of pressure, is ok when the key is off. If it all bleeds off quickly, and is then hard to start, you have a problem.
 

popcorn501

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It has new injectors in it. Ok thanks I'll see what I can come up with this weekend. Thanks for the help.
 
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