I love plastic engine parts!

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arrg

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So, I noticed the front of my engine was making a larger and larger drip on the floor lately and decided to figure out where it was coming from. I put some dye in the oil, and looks like it is coming from the crank sensor hole. I have a Vortec engine in my 1988 with the plastic timing cover, and the cover has a plastic plug that screws in like the sensor would. I went to remove the screw from the plug so I could replace the O-ring, and it just spins in the cover and won't come out. Best guess is the brass insert that it screws into came loose from the plastic. Anyone got an idea how to get this screw out? Also, if I can get it out, anyone have a fix that doesn't involve replacing the timing cover?
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JDGMC

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Buy a cast aluminum timing cover as a backup. Once you have it in hand have at it. Make a wedge by grinding down a flat piece of metal or other material with a slot that is thin enough so it just fits under the bolt head tight. You will have to tap it on. Then Slowly loosen the bolt. If you get it out use an oversized bolt with high-heat epoxy compatible with the plastic. If it doesn’t leak return the cast aluminum timing cover for credit. **I would get rid of it and use the cast aluminum timing cover.
 

JDGMC

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So, I noticed the front of my engine was making a larger and larger drip on the floor lately and decided to figure out where it was coming from. I put some dye in the oil, and looks like it is coming from the crank sensor hole. I have a Vortec engine in my 1988 with the plastic timing cover, and the cover has a plastic plug that screws in like the sensor would. I went to remove the screw from the plug so I could replace the O-ring, and it just spins in cover and won't come out. Best guess is the brass insert that it screws into came loose from the plastic. Anyone got an idea how to get this screw out? Also, if I can get it out, anyone have a fix that doesn't involve replacing the timing cover?
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Btw if you run your truck hard the plastic will not hold up either way.
 

Erik the Awful

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Remove that cap. It doesn't seal the actual hole, it just covers the mounting flange. Install a crank sensor in that hole and zip tie the wiring up out of the way.

For getting the bolt out, needle nose vise grips and a thin, flat screwdriver.
 

Road Trip

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Remove that cap. It doesn't seal the actual hole, it just covers the mounting flange. Install a crank sensor in that hole and zip tie the wiring up out of the way.

For getting the bolt out, needle nose vise grips and a thin, flat screwdriver.

OP, I like ETA's idea, especially if you can source the 'new' crank sensor from the local treasure yard for short money.
Bonus points for figuring out a locally-sourced fresh o-ring
. Strike that. Given that the CKP sensor is no longer
in circuit in your engine bay, for less money than you would spend in gas going to the treasure yard and hardware
store, stuff a super affordable new CKP sensor into your timing cover. $6.99 looks to be the price to beat:

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(Who cares if it works? Just as long as it fits correctly. :0)

By the way, your engine oil is clean, your ground strap is better than it has to be, I see
evidence of a timing tape on your harmonic balancer, and overall your engine bay looks to be
fastidious. Tip of the hat to you for leading by example with your engine bay maintenance
practices. :waytogo:

Best of luck. Please let us know what successful solution you employed to fix your leak.

****

PS: The fine folks at A-premium included a photo in their Amazon listing touting the
features and benefits of their CKP sensor. I found bullet #3 ("Avoid Hot Car Flameout") to
be unusually persuasive. Came this close to upgrading the chore truck with one of these,
even though it's not currently throwing any DTCs or leaking oil in this area. :0)
 

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arrg

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Thanks for all the suggestions! The idea to pull and twist with vice grips while prying on it worked. This is what I was left with:
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I put the bolt back in the brass and it popped right out. This is what is in the cover:
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It's no wonder it didn't hold; the knurling on that piece is barely noticeable. I stuck it back in with some high temp epoxy and ordered a cheap sensor for a plug as suggested. We'll see if it holds in a couple days when the sensor gets here.
 

JDGMC

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The diamond cut insert is fine with a mold set process. The problem is the composition of the composite cover. In general, the CLTE for most plastics is 6-10 times greater than metals. If GM spent a few cents more on the insert and the plastic, there would be no issues.
 
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