High Idle tbi?

[Schurkey]

Don't get me wrong...I've spend my whole life in a friggin' winter-wonderland cold-weather shiithole. God bless "Global Warming" 'cause it's made this place much easier to live with.

I had an aluminum-block 1300cc Honda Civic that didn't produce enough BTUs to stay warm in the winter. Even after covering-up most of the radiator AND the front of the engine block with cardboard every winter. But I've never had an iron V-8 that wouldn't stay warm. Even my iron-block six-poppers do/did just fine.

I'm out of ideas. I don't understand why you're having this problem.

 

[thegawd]

I'm no expert but the newer vehicles have shutters built into the grills. they automatically close when it's cold and open when its warm. I have no idea what parameters makes shìt happen, but this is definitely a part of why the newer vehicles seem warmer.

I dont know, I also live in Canada but it dosent often seem to get nearly cold enough to freeze the damn mud anymore!

Anyways my Burb has always blown nice warm air and it removed the rear heater lines one day for me.... while de-treading a tire.... I was worried that the truck might not be warm enough without the rear system but so far all is well.

Now let's see if this winter is a real one. I could use some polar vortex again, my Burb commuted 3 hours every day during that last polar vortex, 8ish years ago. we had a baby, a toddler and on and on filling every seat in the Burb. it performed flawlessly in that frigid BS.

I have thought about blocking off the rad when it does get super cold out but I have not done that yet.

 

[reservoir dog]

My 94 takes forever to warm up, I let it run 5 minutes or more every morning , still no warm air until the temp gauge starts to move a mile or so down the road. Once the t-stat opens you can toast marsh mellows it just takes longer than any of my other vehicles. I live in Georgia. I would install heated seats if I lived up north , or move.

 

[Schurkey]

I worked with shutters, years ago when I was employed at the Bus Company. We built City Buses, using a variety of engines--Detroit Diesel 6V92, Detroit 50 Series, Cummins 6-poppers, etc.

When it got cold out, even shutters weren't enough. Being a large turbo-diesel generally run at WFO, the radiators were huge. Making it worse, there's multiple huge heater cores trying to warm-up 35, 40, or even 60-foot buses. I remember bringing a bus into the building after it had been left to idle all night--It had stalled, and wouldn't restart. The exhaust system including the catalytic converter was filled with ice. The moisture in the exhaust had condensed and frozen in the muffler/catalytic converter. The low volume of exhaust gasses weren't hot enough to keep the muffler warm.

But again, those radiators and heater cores were huge, they'd be far more than adequate to deplete engine heat with the engine at idle or fast-idle. That's not the situation with GMT400s.

Most buses sold to cold-weather cities had a diesel-fuel-fired auxiliary heater (Webasto) plumbed into the cooling system. The heater AND the engine would warm the coolant for use by the heater cores. It was kinda odd, having a sixty-foot bus with an inch-and-a-quarter exhaust pipe under the bumper (for the heater) and a bigass exhaust in the left-rear of the roof (for the engine.)

www.webasto-comfort.com/en-us/heating-solutions/heavy-duty-truck/coolant-heaters/

Coolant Heaters

Covering a wide range of uses and heating capacities, the Webasto air and coolant based heating systems provide an efficient working environment, while avoiding unnecessary idling times.

www.webasto-comfort.com

 

[Chevysilverado1995]

All I wanted was a diagram so I could wire a high idle in, nothing wrong with a high idle, better oil pressure, better engine heat, I work in a diesel shop and almost every diesel truck has the option to bump up the idle with the cruise switches, why don’t gas engines, older gas grain trucks and such usually had “throttle locks” and honestly I thought about that so I could get that 1000/1200 rpm.

 

[CrustyJunker]

All I wanted was a diagram so I could wire a high idle in, nothing wrong with a high idle, better oil pressure, better engine heat, I work in a diesel shop and almost every diesel truck has the option to bump up the idle with the cruise switches, why don’t gas engines, older gas grain trucks and such usually had “throttle locks” and honestly I thought about that so I could get that 1000/1200 rpm.

[Removed original information to avoid confusion!]

Won't hurt to double check this against your particular ECM to make sure...We don't want you to roast anything. Your broadcast code is printed on a physical sticker on top of the ECM case. The last 4 numbers will give us an idea of what you're working with.

Happy trucking!

 

[tayto]

unless it has a manual transmission B8 is incorrect for 94/95 PCM. E12 is the correct pin. Also grounding this pin out is not correct either. it needs to see battery voltage to turn on.

 

[Chevysilverado1995]

Not sure which set of numbers you need the last 4 out of so here’s this

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Not sure which set of numbers you need the last 4 out of so here’s this

As @tayto said, E12 is the pin for your 7427. Here's a link with info on it. Scroll down and you'll see the schematics
www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?303-16197427-PCM-Information-0D

 

[CrustyJunker]

Deleted my earlier misinformation to avoid confusion. I was comparing the manual ECM, sorry!