HELP!... with cam selection

[slowburb]

Always run the springs that the cam manufacture recommends for the cam you choose. A spring failure can drop a valve so no way I would risk trashing the engine with some umpteen thousand mile springs. Not all machinists are engine builders or vice versa, and some are both, and if he's telling you it's ok to run the tired springs with that cam....well

Error to the smaller side on the cam.

Yes, I forgot to mention this. You should not want to keep the stock valve springs. And, small cams rule.

 

[baddbradd]

I am running a Comp 252 XFI, H-13..113* lobe separation. I have recently switch to a 600 Carb, cam provides good torque too.....My issue was a crazy tbi unit

 

[wheelman]

350 WHAT...MAN OLD SCHOOL..350 OR A NEW MODEL VORTEC.THE OLD ENGINES I THINK CAME WITH TWO DIFFERENT STOCK CAMS..THE SECOND WAS CALLED.A TOW CAM..MORE POWER TO PULL..350 VORTEC IF YOU START CHANGING FROM STOCK.YOU MAY get in to a world of hurt.trying to get it all to run right.with these dang computers going to change to a big cam..work the heads..stock springs and rockers.may let go-break or tear up.it is pay now or pay later..install two exhaust converters.and never need those cheap tin header mufflers ever again..

 

[slowburb]

I don't know what ^^ that means.

 

[Hipster]

I don't know what ^^ that means.

lol the thingymabob gozinta the whatchmacallit if you got bigger bumps on yer lumpstick

 

[slowburb]

If you're firm on running another hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, it is necessary to replace the lifters. Do not buy cheap lifters. Manufacturing and metallurgy are not what they used to be as OEM's don't use hydraulic flat tappet lifters much anymore. You will absolutely have to perform a dedicated break in/run in period before driving the truck. You should follow the cam manufacturer's break in procedure to a T so that you have recourse with the manufacturer or vendor "if" you lose a lifter or wipe a cam lobe during or after the break in session. This break in session should be at least one 20 minute period where the engine is running above idle, usually varying between 2000 & 3500 RPM. Most times this is done with the vehicle parked, but if you have miles of roadway where you can keep from idling at all, it can be done on the road, you just don't have the same opportunity to shut it down and work on it if something isn't right.

It's necessary to make sure spark and fuel are 100% ready to go so that the engine fires up right away, before spinning around so many times that the break in lube is in the oil pan instead of still on the valvetrain parts where it belongs. I mentioned Comp's goofy red koolaid cam lube. Nobody else (Lunati, Crane, Crower, Howards, Elgin, etc.) wants you to use this stuff; all other cam manufacturers require a moly based lube instead. It sticks to the lobes and lifter faces better, and generally speaking is far superior to that red crap by chemistry. I've seen wayyy more failures from Comp's stuff than all the other manufacturers put together.

Inspect your parts upon disassembly. Check the rocker arms for wear. Check the pivot balls for wear. If anything looks suspect, replace it. Same with the pushrods and rocker nuts. It's probably best to replace the timing chain and gears while you're in there, and if the water pump hasn't been changed, change it too. I have no idea of your experience level, so in case you haven't done this before, you have some insight and a head start. There are torque values and torque sequence to adhere to with regard to the head bolts and intake manifold bolts. Attention should be applied to making sure you use proper sealant on the fasteners.

The cam selection is a big deal. Like literally tons of other fellas, you want the cam swap to be noticeable. I understand that, but do not agree with it. The right way, the smart way to do it, is to build the engine for it's intended purpose and let the cards fall how they may with idle and sound. You have stock heads, stock TBI, & stock tune, so the lopey cam you "want" does not match with these parts.

If you *must* use a Comp cam, I like this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-230-2/overview/make/chevrolet

 

[Lifted92]

Check out tbichips.com he has a wealth of info on camming these trucks