Help advice needed for body filler

[chimneyman]

I haven't been a member long and have already learned some valuable information for my truck and how and where to post threads.

With that being said I'll get to my question. I'll start working on some body work in the next couple months and was wanting to get this out there. For one because I didn't see another post and secondly I know several answers usually doesn't come over night. I would like to know what your favorite body filler is and where you get it from. The biggest dent maybe the size of a golf ball, at the most. My truck is in exceptional condition for its age. I wasn't for sure if I should use the common "Bondo" or not.

 

[andy396]

Bondo followed by some polyester glazing filler works nicely. Just make sure what it's going over is stable with no rust. If it's going on top of paint be sure to sand any old oxidized paint away first.


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[chimneyman]

Bondo followed by some polyester glazing filler works nicely. Just make sure what it's going over is stable with no rust. If it's going on top of paint be sure to sand any old oxidized paint away first.


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Would you recommend air craft stripper and then prime with an epoxy primer?

 

[Bob L]

Been doing body work for over 40 years and I use Evercoat rage extreme. Very expensive and worth it. No glazing putty needed just get the filler straight prime sand and paint. It is the nicest sanding filler I have ever used and has no pinholes if mixed correctly. Do not put extra hardener in any filler or it will bleed through your paint eventually and clog up sand paper.

 

[deadbeat]

Been doing body work for over 40 years and I use Evercoat rage extreme. Very expensive and worth it. No glazing putty needed just get the filler straight prime sand and paint. It is the nicest sanding filler I have ever used and has no pinholes if mixed correctly. Do not put extra hardener in any filler or it will bleed through your paint eventually and clog up sand paper.

I agree, Rage is the best.

 

[SC_Chevy]

I haven't been a member long and have already learned some valuable information for my truck and how and where to post threads.

With that being said I'll get to my question. I'll start working on some body work in the next couple months and was wanting to get this out there. For one because I didn't see another post and secondly I know several answers usually doesn't come over night. I would like to know what your favorite body filler is and where you get it from. The biggest dent maybe the size of a golf ball, at the most. My truck is in exceptional condition for its age. I wasn't for sure if I should use the common "Bondo" or not.

I work as a collision tech, what their saying is true but what panel is your dent on, a door or fender?



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[andy396]

Would you recommend air craft stripper and then prime with an epoxy primer?

I wouldn't go nuts trying to get down to bare metal. As long as you've sanded any old oxidized paint off you should be ok. Again, no rust is key. If there is rust then sand blasting that spot would be best, but if how you do it doesn't get it all, epoxy primer would help improve the chances of it not causing problems.


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[DiGiTaL D]

Just my methods here, but I always strip to bare before using any filler. I have a 90° right angle die grinder that is very precise with a 3-inch coarse abrasive disc for stripping. Doesn't gouge the metal and you can strip where you need. If you need to get more aggressive (rust) you can always go with a 40-grit 3-inch disc. For thicker applications, I start with Bondo Glass (aka Duraglass or Dynaglass). It is the fiberglass reinforced stuff. It is also waterproof. You will always want to topcoat that with regular pink Bondo or the more expensive filler of your choice. If you use regular Bondo and have pin holes, you can then use their glazing/spot putty to fill the pin holes.

For smaller dings (door dings, etc.) you can use only the regular Bondo or other similar filler then topcoat with a glazing putty (if you don't spend the big bucks on the Rage).

Knock it down with a cheese grater before sanding if you have big ridges after applying the filler. For sandpaper I usually start no coarser than 180 grit and work my way up to 400 before shooting primer.

Here is a nice video you may find helpful.

 

[Bob L]

Says on the can grind to bare with course sanding disc then apply filler. Directions are there for a reason. If I am just filling a little ding in a car with good paint I sand the spot with 80 grit and skim but if it requires metal work grind it to metal and repair.

 

[deadbeat]

I work my bondo with 36 grit until I get shape, then 80. Then on my final coat I knock the top off with 80 and finish with 180 and then prime. Feather all the areas of paint out that you cut through to get to metal and prime only the bondo and area you sanded with 360. Sand your first coat of primer with 220 with soapy water and your next coat with 360 and you have a spot ready to paint. Do not sand your bondo with anything finer than 180, the primer is there for a reason, but make sure you don't leave any 36 or 80 grit scratches, primer will shrink in them and they will show. If they are they you have to apply another thin coat of bondo or glaze and do the 80/180 thing to it. Depending on your paint you should sand it with 400 grit to paint over, do not go any finer than 600 or you risk it not sticking. Bondo sticks best to clean bare metal. In good metal it will out last the vehicle, in rust your lucky if it lasts a few months.