Head gasket replacement 1998 K2500

[HotWheelsBurban]

Small block Chevy water pump gasket, there should be two(one for each leg of the pump).

Back in my parts store days we sold a bunch of those! Most small block Chevy gaskets, I could go to the shelf or bin(smaller gaskets were in envelopes in cardboard bins under the counter) and pull it w/o looking it up, because I knew the part numbers....

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Another thing about the Vortec water pump: you need to use aviation permatex on the bolts, because a couple of them go into the water jacket. It WILL leak otherwise; ask me how I know! I got to do the water pump on my Burb twice in about a month, because of that, and bad gaskets/pump the first time. Also you need to check the six bolts in the rear cover plate for tightness. Doesn't take much torque because they are small bolts. But I have seen new and reman pumps come in with some of those bolts loose! There is a torque spec for them..... however I looked at both my shop manuals and googled it and all I could come up with is 8-10ft/lbs. They're 1/4-20 bolts so not much force is needed. Hope this is helpful....

One of the torque specs guides for small block Chevy I found online has 20-25 inch-pounds for the valve cover bolts which are similar size. I don't remember what I did on the pumps on the Burb, it was in early 2019 and I wasn't on the forum then. You want them snug, but you don't want to break any of them off either!

 

[TommyJ1980]

Another thing about the Vortec water pump: you need to use aviation permatex on the bolts, because a couple of them go into the water jacket. It WILL leak otherwise; ask me how I know! I got to do the water pump on my Burb twice in about a month, because of that, and bad gaskets/pump the first time. Also you need to check the six bolts in the rear cover plate for tightness. Doesn't take much torque because they are small bolts. But I have seen new and reman pumps come in with some of those bolts loose! There is a torque spec for them..... however I looked at both my shop manuals and googled it and all I could come up with is 8-10ft/lbs. They're 1/4-20 bolts so not much force is needed. Hope this is helpful....

Appreciate that!!

 

[Supercharged111]

Another thing about the Vortec water pump: you need to use aviation permatex on the bolts, because a couple of them go into the water jacket. It WILL leak otherwise; ask me how I know! I got to do the water pump on my Burb twice in about a month, because of that, and bad gaskets/pump the first time. Also you need to check the six bolts in the rear cover plate for tightness. Doesn't take much torque because they are small bolts. But I have seen new and reman pumps come in with some of those bolts loose! There is a torque spec for them..... however I looked at both my shop manuals and googled it and all I could come up with is 8-10ft/lbs. They're 1/4-20 bolts so not much force is needed. Hope this is helpful....

I just use anti seize on the bolts that go into the water jacket. Actually, it's only one of them? I forget, but with just anti seize I've never seen a leak. I may not have even used that on the pump I put in my 1500 eons ago. So it's not a guaranteed leak, but apparently it is Russian Roulette.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I just use anti seize on the bolts that go into the water jacket. Actually, it's only one of them? I forget, but with just anti seize I've never seen a leak. I may not have even used that on the pump I put in my 1500 eons ago. So it's not a guaranteed leak, but apparently it is Russian Roulette.

The aviation permatex was recommended by my cousin, who told me that three generations of mechanics in his family had used it, "about as long as they've made the stuff". It worked great on my Burb, and I'll use it when it's water pump time on the crew cab. Might not be everyone's experience though.....

 

[TommyJ1980]

Wondering if this is supposed to be offset by this much for when the belt goes back on…

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[TommyJ1980]

Great progress today, thank you all for your $0.02.

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[HotWheelsBurban]

Wondering if this is supposed to be offset by this much for when the belt goes back on…

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The water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley look lined up to me. I think the power steering pulley goes back over the pump snout, similar to the water pump pulley. Do you have any pictures of the engine before you started removing parts? If you do, refer to them and they should help.

 

[TommyJ1980]

The water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley look lined up to me. I think the power steering pulley goes back over the pump snout, similar to the water pump pulley. Do you have any pictures of the engine before you started removing parts? If you do, refer to them and they should help.

So it did work it, once the new pulley went on it lined up perfectly. I tried a makeshift tool and got it on about halfway but finally gave up and went over and rented a pulley remover and replacer kit, and it made short work of it. At this point the belt is back on and everything looks good. I also checked out the bolts on the water jacket of the water pump, they were nice and tight. Was wondering if loctite, either color, would work in place of the aviation permatex you referenced?

 

[TommyJ1980]

Update - whew, what a day. At this point, I have it mostly assembled, the milkshake oil has been cleaned out of the top of the engine by hand, and the oil pan drained. I kept both of the batteries on a trickle charger while I was doing this, and they are ready to go. I was really hoping to drive it to work tomorrow, but ultimately was thwarted by the exhaust gaskets, and will be taking the Volvo with a chicken sticker on the back to work instead. If you have any tricks for lining up the heavy-ass exhaust while trying to thread the bolts through the gasket, I would absolutely be grateful to hear.

I also wanted to thank the folks again who have taken the time to share their advice. For this repair, I have been going as hard as I can to put this thing back into service, and trying not to compromise quality of my work in the process, so that's always a balance. Overall I feel good about my work, but the proof will be in the pudding.

One more thing - the repair video I've been watching by A-one auto had me put the engine in TDC compression at this beginning, then while adjusting the valves, I turned the crank pulley ONE time, in order to adjust the second set of valves and take up the lash in the pushrods. My question is this - when I took the distributor out, the guy seemed to make a big deal about the engine being in TDC compression, and I assumed it would stay that way until the distributor was replaced, however, now due to the instructions on valve adjustment, cylinder number one is in TDC exhaust. I just replaced the distributor and lined up the rotor with the "8" pointing to the notch, and the flat part lined up with the back of the engine, but I just wasn't sure if that was an oversight having the cylinder in a different part of the cycle than when the distributor was initially removed, and I don't want to be in a position where I'm gonna screw up the engine while starting it, because the distributor is in the wrong position? Appreciate any thoughts you'd have on this.

Thanks again,

Tommy
Longview, WA