Freshly rebuilt 4l60e granaded.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

NickTransmissions

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2023
Messages
709
Reaction score
1,140
Location
Las Vegas
The front and rear shafts in a trans are set up at a specific endplay number. Off hand I don't remember what that clearance is. You don't want the front shaft beating the back or vice-versa with the yoke bottoming. i don't think you're dealing with a trans build issue. The issue is elsewhere. You didn't build a stadium truck with 15 inches of super compliant energy absorbing suspension travel. landing it like one of the Duke boys, burn outs with wheel hop, washboard roads @ 60mph with all that energy being transferred in the chassis and components. Harmonics, think of the Harley that cracks it's frame, the bad balancer that breaks a crankshaft into to 2 pieces. It can crate all sorts of nastiness. Also been my experience , once a crank thrust bearing start to go, it goes rather fast, as Nick said TC's hardly ever need shimmed and the trans guys are already pointing to at least one issue that is not their issue.
Purely for information in case anyone's reading and is curious about the end play specs... Front end play spec is .015-.035 for all 700R4s and 4L60Es; I shoot for .015-.020 on my builds as a tight case is a 'right' case. There's no rear end play spec for the 700r4/4L60e though you can shim the rear gear train to tighten up front end play. You can also shim the relationship between the front planet and output shaft to reduce travel of the output shaft at the front planet to reduce stress on the snap ring holding the output shaft in place at the front planet.

If front end play is too tight, parts will overheat and there's potential for a temporary, repetitive interference fit condition between pump, reverse input drum and forward drum as temps rise and fall and as the vehicle accelerates and decelerates moving parts back and forth. In extreme cases, this results in forward drum thrust bearing failure which, when it collapses, creates an excessive end play condition (sometimes as much as 1/4" of an inch). Needless to say, parts get damaged real quick, including both drums.

On the other hand, too much end play, e.g. .040+, the forward drum thrust bearing gets battered as the forward and reverse input drums move back and forth longitudinally between the pump and front gear train while the vehicle's transitioning from accel to decel, resulting in more parts damage.
 

Hipster

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
3,550
Reaction score
6,175
Location
Liberty, NC
Purely for information in case anyone's reading and is curious about the end play specs... Front end play spec is .015-.035 for all 700R4s and 4L60Es; I shoot for .015-.020 on my builds as a tight case is a 'right' case. There's no rear end play spec for the 700r4/4L60e though you can shim the rear gear train to tighten up front end play. You can also shim the relationship between the front planet and output shaft to reduce travel of the output shaft at the front planet to reduce stress on the snap ring holding the output shaft in place at the front planet.

If front end play is too tight, parts will overheat and there's potential for a temporary, repetitive interference fit condition between pump, reverse input drum and forward drum as temps rise and fall and as the vehicle accelerates and decelerates moving parts back and forth. In extreme cases, this results in forward drum thrust bearing failure which, when it collapses, creates an excessive end play condition (sometimes as much as 1/4" of an inch). Needless to say, parts get damaged real quick, including both drums.

On the other hand, too much end play, e.g. .040+, the forward drum thrust bearing gets battered as the forward and reverse input drums move back and forth longitudinally between the pump and front gear train while the vehicle's transitioning from accel to decel, resulting in more parts damage.
I'm no expert but have put a few together, I knew the endplay number is not a big number. Awesome post. Needs to be in your sticky thread.
 

joesenior79

Newbie
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Messages
17
Reaction score
6
Location
Utah
Thank you everyone for your advice. I was really hoping the transmission shop was to blame considering I've have two complete failures after they initially rebuilt the transmission. I have yet to find the cause but plan to recheck everything include driveline length. The company I purchased the lift kit says the original driveline length is correct. I did feel a vibration about 2-3 seconds as I accelerated from a stop before failure. I thought it was a flat or low tire pressure. Which indicates U-joints. However, I just replaced those myself about 10k miles ago.
 

L31MaxExpress

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
6,126
Reaction score
7,998
Location
DFW, TX
Thank you everyone for your advice. I was really hoping the transmission shop was to blame considering I've have two complete failures after they initially rebuilt the transmission. I have yet to find the cause but plan to recheck everything include driveline length. The company I purchased the lift kit says the original driveline length is correct. I did feel a vibration about 2-3 seconds as I accelerated from a stop before failure. I thought it was a flat or low tire pressure. Which indicates U-joints. However, I just replaced those myself about 10k miles ago.

It is very possible that you have an out of phase driveline if you feel vibration. They make tapered spacers to help correct the driveline angle. A lift will change the working angles of the u-joints, requiring the tapered spacers to bring the pinion angle back to spec. The spacers go between the rear axle tube and leaf spring. You first need to measure the angles, then determine if you need the spacers. Not overly difficult, but will take some research on your part to understand what you are doing. Out of phase u-joints can easily be destroyed and much quicker than 10K miles.
 

joesenior79

Newbie
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Messages
17
Reaction score
6
Location
Utah
Does anyone think that this transmission has any value whatsoever other than as a core? It just sucks that I spent almost $4k on the rebuild, has less than 3k miles on it, now it's completely useless. I have all the paperwork for the rebuild. I wish I had the skill, special tools, and patience to swap out all the internals to a new housing myself.
 

NickTransmissions

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2023
Messages
709
Reaction score
1,140
Location
Las Vegas
Does anyone think that this transmission has any value whatsoever other than as a core? It just sucks that I spent almost $4k on the rebuild, has less than 3k miles on it, now it's completely useless. I have all the paperwork for the rebuild. I wish I had the skill, special tools, and patience to swap out all the internals to a new housing myself.
Unfortunately, no. Its a core at best and given the damage most would be leery of spending any money at all for fear of gear train damage.
 

joesenior79

Newbie
Joined
Jan 9, 2022
Messages
17
Reaction score
6
Location
Utah
I think I'm going to take it back to the tranny shop that's rebuilt it three times now... maybe I can convince them to rebuild it again at a discounted price... smh. Thanks again!
 
Top