Free to me GMC 2500

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99xcss4

frank'n (truburban) K-2500
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I just replaced the factory 5/1 leaf springs rated at 2200# with their 5/1 pack rated at 3000#. That raised the rear of the truck 3” and ride is much stiffer. Had to remove the lift blocks as it extended the shocks too much and to get back level. Haven’t towed the camper yet to assess loaded ride. 3300#’s might jar your teeth unloaded
yeah it might be a bit over kill the K-3500 pulls a 35ft 5th wheel and a 20ft car hauler K-2500 is just a project but want it to be able to both work and play hard they have 6/1 packs I do not think a small upgrade would hurt to much that 1 ton rides a lot nicer then it has any right to I do not think that the ride would change that much
 

Piratehunter

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yeah it might be a bit over kill the K-3500 pulls a 35ft 5th wheel and a 20ft car hauler K-2500 is just a project but want it to be able to both work and play hard they have 6/1 packs I do not think a small upgrade would hurt to much that 1 ton rides a lot nicer then it has any right to I do not think that the ride would change that much
I was surprised by the added ride height. I got all new bolts and u-bolts from them too, then had to remove the blocks and buy shorter u-bolts. Shipping cost was pretty steep. They are going to weigh about 150# each.
 

Erik the Awful

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I’m putting in OEM GMT800 2500 brakes, it’s what came factory on H2 axles. They should be nice and it’s all OEM stuff so replacement parts will be plentiful and affordable. I happen to have a full brand new set sitting in a shelf begging to be put on something.
Danger, Will Robinson!

Disc brakes require a much higher pressure to operate. Drum brakes self-actuate, meaning that once they touch the drum, the friction pulls the shoes into the drum harder. If you look at drum brake cars, they rarely had boosters. Replacing the drum brakes with disc brakes means you'll have to use more force on the pedal, and it may not be suitable for some drivers. The brake proportioning will also be off. Your rear brakes will be doing even less of the braking.

If you're swapping in GMT800 rear brakes, strongly consider swapping the rest of the system in. Front brakes, master cylinder and booster, and (if viable) the ABS system.

Short of that, find a good brake system calculator and do the math to ensure you have a compatible setup. You'll need to know the size of your master cylinder piston, the size of your caliper pistons, and the size of your wheel cylinder plungers.
 

Dantheman1540

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I definitely don’t feel that it will need extra help leveling the rear, if it does it will get a custom spring pack from ORD or Deaver, or a different shackle setup. I like leveling bags for towing, but I don’t think this truck will need it. I have them in my Tahoe which has pretty soft lowering coil springs in the rear which drops drastically with weight. But the factory leafs with a thiccc overload should be okay.

I might reach out to Wheel Every Weekend and see what they suggest. They speced the valving for the 7100s in my ranger and it’s ludicrously good for such a simple shock. Iirc Bilstien actually mentioned specing shocks for these truck in an episode of their podcast and agreed 4600s were the best bang for buck. I wish they had a line of smooth body JCO shocks for universal applications even if they were silly expensive I’d prob buy them.

I’d probably already have ordered 4600s if they had the shiny body’s of the 5100s and not yellow :doublepuke:
 

Dantheman1540

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Danger, Will Robinson!

Disc brakes require a much higher pressure to operate. Drum brakes self-actuate, meaning that once they touch the drum, the friction pulls the shoes into the drum harder. If you look at drum brake cars, they rarely had boosters. Replacing the drum brakes with disc brakes means you'll have to use more force on the pedal, and it may not be suitable for some drivers. The brake proportioning will also be off. Your rear brakes will be doing even less of the braking.

If you're swapping in GMT800 rear brakes, strongly consider swapping the rest of the system in. Front brakes, master cylinder and booster, and (if viable) the ABS system.

Short of that, find a good brake system calculator and do the math to ensure you have a compatible setup. You'll need to know the size of your master cylinder piston, the size of your caliper pistons, and the size of your wheel cylinder plungers.

With the swap of disks in the rear I will be converting to GMT800 hydroboost. If the bias is awful and the rear locks up like crazy I can always use a proportioning valve. Don’t think I’ll have issues tho, and I will test the crap out of it before I consider it good and put a load behind it.
 

Supercharged111

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With the swap of disks in the rear I will be converting to GMT800 hydroboost. If the bias is awful and the rear locks up like crazy I can always use a proportioning valve. Don’t think I’ll have issues tho, and I will test the crap out of it before I consider it good and put a load behind it.

Since the proportioning happens inside the ABS unit, you'll likely be tossing that in favor of something else to get the balance you want.
 

bluex

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With the swap of disks in the rear I will be converting to GMT800 hydroboost. If the bias is awful and the rear locks up like crazy I can always use a proportioning valve. Don’t think I’ll have issues tho, and I will test the crap out of it before I consider it good and put a load behind it.
800s have a proportion valve before the abs unit under the master with some nice braided stainless lines to it. I'd grab all that from your donor too. Ditch the abs all together an enjoy....
 
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