Fluids and filtration discussion

[great white]

That's what we use in the tractors, combines, etc back home. Generally we changed it every 90 hours. It gets real expensive when you're changing oil and the case holds 7+ gallons of oil, plus changing 2 oil filters. We run BP 15w-40 (used to be Amoco) oil. I'll tell you, that was the best oil before they got bought out by BP.

90 hrs isn't unreasonable.

Most people only average around 1 hr or so a day (not everyone, but most).

That's 30 hrs a month, or around 90hrs for 3 months.

Oddly enough, 3 months is most OEM's time in sump before change is recommended.

Problem with industrial equipment is they usually turn on in the morning and stay running to late into the night so lots of changes required......

 

[JollyGreen]

Problem with industrial equipment is they usually turn on in the morning and stay running to late into the night so lots of changes required......

Exactly.

 

[Sampuppy1]

Ultimately, by running hours is the best way for things like fuel filters. Lacking Hour meters, mileage becomes the next best meter stick.

Air filters are best determined by differential pressure, but that is something most users don't/won't know. Mileage and operating environment become the easiest way.

Oil and filter is also best by hour meter or total time in sump. Lacking that, mileage and time in crankcase become the consumer accepted measure for replacement.

Transmission is mileage, unless you know you've been working it hard or have overheated it.

Axles are mileage or if they've been submersed. Submersion is a "change it right now" scenario for me.



Reading back over my own words here, I find myself wondering why I took the hour meter out of my truck.

I think I might put it back in.......

This should all be common sense stuff. But sadly more than half probably don't even know why they have to change anything. Why can't I just put gas in it and drive??? I've had people tell me they sink the rear end to the tailgate at the boat launch all summer and that changing differential fluid never needs to get done. That its a lifetime fluid and I was trying to up sell him cause you quick change guys are all on commission. (I was not we were all hourly) his fluid was always aerated and milky. He let us change his diesel oil black tcase fluid when we told him it was trans fluid in there.

In truth depending on how much you drive time in service should be the gauge for fuel filters.

Definitely get that hour meter hooked back up! I've seen the new stuff man most of them come with a speedo and fuel gauge it seems. And even those aren't specific anymore. They just have e and f. No 1/4 1/2 3/4 or anything. There's no tach. An any other gauges are for retards. Temp? H & C. Oil pressure H&L. Voltage H&L. Wtf. My volt meter needs numbers dammit. What are you gonna tell people when you bring it it with a problem. The buoy thing gauge is on h and its dinging at me. The lightning bolt gauge dropped to L and my car shut off.
Tyler/T-Unit

 

[SkyHighColorado]

What is the best brake fluid? Doing a flush with cheap fluid 1st. Is there and brake flushing fluids to help clean it up?

 

[Sampuppy1]

I don't think there's any flushes available. The braking system has extremely low tolerances for contamination due to the high pressures. Any water or air will cause the brakes to not work properly. I just went out and bought valvoline synthetic DOT3/DOT4 and bled them a
Shiit ton of times until I felt that the system was flushed sufficiently.


Sent from what is likely a government flagged smartphone. Tyler/T-Unit

 

[98slv]

on my 98 (mud truck,) I blew a rear brake cylinder and bled accoredingly using DOT4 (suppose to be sythnetic and resist water contamination,) but ever since that the brakes have been real spoungey. I want to bleed them again and use DOT3 and hope to cure that. The 99 is presumed to be factory brake fluid.

I use 5w30 full sythentic penzoil engine oil and ac delco filters in both trucks.

power steering whatever is cheapest.

tranny whatever is cheapest but they will both get Royal Purple or Amsoil full sythentic, again whatever is cheapest, when I change soon.

rear end in the 98 gets whatever oil I have sitting around, used or not. Carrier bearing and seal are shot and it leaks everywhere it isn't worth fixing when i have a ff 14b in my garage waiting to be swapped in. The 99 is running full sythetic Royal purple 85w140.

coolant is premixed Prestone Dexacool in both trucks.



Haven't switched to full synthetic trans oil but I would like to hear everyones opinion on it.

 

[SAATR]

Unless you simply must have a full synthetic fluid, I would highly recommend using Dexron VI. It is more viscosity stable, more resistant to thermal breakdown, and has an improved additive package over original spec Dex III, which is now sold as Dex/Merc since neither Ford nor GM still license the name and formulation for either fluid. Dexron VI is also considerably cheaper per quart than any of the full synthetic formulations out there, and is back spec'd by GM for applications previously using Dex III.

 

[jtlichty]

Is there anyone here that can quickly explain the easiest and least messy way to change a fuel filter? I bought one because I have no idea how long mine has been on there, but I haven't changed it yet.

 

[SAATR]

Is there anyone here that can quickly explain the easiest and least messy way to change a fuel filter? I bought one because I have no idea how long mine has been on there, but I haven't changed it yet.

If Vortec: Raise the hood and find where the fuel lines go into the intake. One line will have a black plastic cap. This cap covers the fuel pressure test port. Remove the cap, and you will find a small Schrader valve, which is the same thing as a tire air valve. Use a #2 Phillips to depress the valve while holding a rag or paper towel around the valve and screwdriver to prevent fuel spray. Once you have relieved the pressure, you can remove the filter. There really isn't a best way, but loosening the lines to allow the excess fuel to drain into a catch pan will save some fuel running down your arms. Also, wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves if possible. Be sure to put the new filter on properly, matching the flow direction of the filter and fuel system.

Ego mobili

 

[Sampuppy1]

If Vortec: Raise the hood and find where the fuel lines go into the intake. One line will have a black plastic cap. This cap covers the fuel pressure test port. Remove the cap, and you will find a small Schrader valve, which is the same thing as a tire air valve. Use a #2 Phillips to depress the valve while holding a rag or paper towel around the valve and screwdriver to prevent fuel spray. Once you have relieved the pressure, you can remove the filter. There really isn't a best way, but loosening the lines to allow the excess fuel to drain into a catch pan will save some fuel running down your arms. Also, wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves if possible. Be sure to put the new filter on properly, matching the flow direction of the filter and fuel system.

Ego mobili

Unless it's so rusted it won't move. This is my problem. Time for new lines or rubber and clamped filter style.


Sent from what is likely a government flagged smartphone. Tyler/T-Unit