Engine swap input

[Ronchiggy]

All looks pretty good except the pistons and oil pan.

I've never had good service with hypereutetic pistons. The idea is they have less thermal expansion than cast or forged so you can run tighter piston to cyl. clearance but they are also brittle. KB's are hypereutetic and I've cleaned pieces of those out of the bottom of Harley cases. Unless you plan on hammering on it cast will last a long time but forged are always better. The rings for those are kind of on the thin side for a street engine. Designed for low drag not longevity.
I see those are .030 over pistons. You may want to hold off buying pistons and rings until you have your block checked,you may only need .010 over. No need to bore more than what's needed.

You always want a windage tray in your oil pan and that pan doesn't have one. I would only run that pan with a bolt on windage tray.

Ok will definitely look at some different piston and oil pan options, I will spend the extra money where needed especially for longevity. I was doing some more reading and saw a lot of talk about compression, someone on here recommended a 9:1 ratio, what are the things I would need to achieve that?

This is the cam I'm running in my 355 and I love it.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/1...ahwS5XXURL5b6mQmnEzfFeFwHxbGf8uAaAg-6EALw_wcB

Pulls like a mule and has a little thump at idle with good vacuum.

For my motor would it be better to get roller lifters instead of flat tappet? I saw these get recommended as good replacements.
https://www.michiganmotorsports.com...KayDchVSZCPnjNeg6okKQVdSfxY1xtmMaAnCVEALw_wcB
And as far as the cam goes I saw many people recommend calling a cam company to have them recommend one for my needs, what are some cam companies you would recommend?

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Thanks a lot been spending a while looking for parts, unfortunately I don't have a local parts store nearby, at least not that I know of.

You would be surprised at who can get what. Look at the manufacturer's site, and see where they are available. The welding shop in my town can get aftermarket parts for my Harley if I wanted to.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Those lifters are for LS motors. Your motor has no provisions for roller lifters,
There are lifters for the older engines that have straps that tie the pairs together but they're pricey. There are many engines running around with flat tappets with many miles on them. The trick to making them last is running high zinc oil. Crane used to make good cams,haven't used one myself in quite a few years so I couldn't tell you about current quality. Iskenderian,Comp Cams,Crower,Erson,GM,Howards ,,,,and there are more.

With so much junk being produced these days read as many reviews as you can find on just about anything you're gonna put in that motor. What was good 20yrs ago maybe total garbage today.

 

[Erik the Awful]

This is my build list so far let me know if I should change anything or something would be a better value.

I've never had good service with hypereutetic pistons...
I see those are .030 over pistons. You may want to hold off buying pistons and rings until you have your block checked,you may only need .010 over. No need to bore more than what's needed... The rings for those are kind of on the thin side for a street engine. Designed for low drag not longevity.

You always want a windage tray in your oil pan and that pan doesn't have one. I would only run that pan with a bolt on windage tray.

There's a lot of places you could trim the budget on that list. I suggest spreadsheeting your parts list so you can quickly identify where to save money.

This oil pan is $100 cheaper. Paint it yourself. Use your factory windage tray.

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That oil pump is stupid expensive. Here's the big block oil pump that works just fine.

Melling M-77 Melling Oil Pumps | Summit Racing

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Spend a few bucks on a good oil pump stud.

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If the rods look good, clean them up and reinstall them yourself. If you're dead set on replacing them, Summit has a good set of rods with ARP hardware for about $60 less than those Eagles. Knowing Summit, they're probably made by Eagle anyways.

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Get a bar hone and hone the cylinders yourself. These blocks usually don't need an overbore unless they've been damaged.

Hypereutectic pistons are fine. My concern is that listing doesn't tell you how many ccs of dish they have. What's your compression ratio going to be afterwards? For a street engine you're going to want to target 9.5:1. You're going to want to pay attention to how deep in the hole your pistons are, and plan for a head gasket that targets .040" quench. Then you'll need a piston dish that gets your compression to 9.5:1.

Compression Calculator

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Thinner rings are better. The old school 5/64 - 5/64 - 3/16 ring package kills some horsepower. Modern engines run thinner ring packages. However, if you're not racing it, don't bother. Get the cheap pistons and rings. The rings you listed aren't compatible with the pistons and they're stupidly priced anyways.

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[Erik the Awful]

Your motor has no provisions for roller lifters,

Sorry, but this is dead wrong. Vortec motors came with roller lifters, and they're pretty good. Take 'em apart, clean 'em, reassemble and reinstall.

And as far as the cam goes I saw many people recommend calling a cam company to have them recommend one for my needs, what are some cam companies you would recommend?

I like Lunati. They're owned by Holley now, but many years ago I got to tour their factory in Tennessee.

Comp Cams is the cam giant, and they now own Crane Cams as well.

I have a Howards cam in my 472 Cadillac, and it's identical in specs and performance to the Comp Cam in my 500 Cadillac.

I wouldn't turn down a Melling cam, but I wouldn't go looking to them for the highest performance.

Have you considered just putting 1.6:1 rockers on your stock cam? Be sure and get self-aligning rockers. These Eglin rockers are about $200 less than buying a roller cam. It won't be a drastic change, but you will net a little more power.

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[Scooterwrench]

OOps My bad,I thought you had an 88 engine. That one has rollers in it doesn't it?