Drivers power window quit on my '90 standard cab. Where to start?

[OlSmokie]

My power window decided to quit working. Is there a way to test the motor by running 12 volts to it and see if that's the problem?
I would imagine that if it's the wire, it will be broke right at the door, where it gets bent the most. That looks like quite the job to get at.
Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[tsr2185]

My power window decided to quit working. Is there a way to test the motor by running 12 volts to it and see if that's the problem?
I would imagine that if it's the wire, it will be broke right at the door, where it gets bent the most. That looks like quite the job to get at.
Any tips would be appreciated.

I just fixed this on my 91 a few months back. Passenger side buttons worked. Drivers side door lock and windows only worked when door was halfway open. Pulled the rubber hose off the door, and pull as much wire as i can out of door and unwrapped the tape that was on it. I immediately found the two broken wires, orange and pink i believe. Theres more wire slack in the door than you would think, at least in my case. Taped that up and worked perfect after. I hear this is very common. I had to cut about 3 inches out of dry rot wire insulation until i could reterminate. Worked perfect ever since.

One thing i did was swap the passenger and driver side window buttons to make sure it wasnt just a bad switch before i dug into it. The wires were actually a easier job than the switches.

 

[tsr2185]

My power window decided to quit working. Is there a way to test the motor by running 12 volts to it and see if that's the problem?
I would imagine that if it's the wire, it will be broke right at the door, where it gets bent the most. That looks like quite the job to get at.
Any tips would be appreciated.

Pink is hot for windows, orange is hot for power lock IIRC.

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[OlSmokie]

Well, that was more work than I bargained for. it turned out to be the window motor itself. I got it changed out with a new one, $49.99, and it works great.
The old one was corroded inside and it looks like moisture had gotten in. The factory motor only had three screws and I don't think it was sealed properly from the start. The new one has four. The original must have deleted the one screw for clearance on another model.

 

[TonyM]

Have you been working on this the whole 9 months since your original post? I sure hope my motors don't go lol. Just bustin balls of course.

 

[OlSmokie]

Have you been working on this the whole 9 months since your original post? I sure hope my motors don't go lol. Just bustin balls of course.

That poor truck sits in the laneway and only gets used a handful of times a year. It just turned 190,000K, about 120,000 miles and it's still in great shape for being 33 years old.
I just picked up a load of drywall for my new garage and it paid for itself once more. Good old Chevy long-box. Load the 4 x 8 sheets in, slam the tailgate and drive away.