here i found a little blurb If so, is the check engine light illuminated MIL or (malfunction indicator lamp) on intermittent or all the time?
If so, what are the MIL DTC diagnosis codes? Try pulling ECM and looking and smelling for burns. Have your ECM tested to be sure it is functioning properly. If the ECM is bad, have it repaired or replaced with known remand or new unit.
If ECM is OK, then follow the error codes it gives, and check the appropriate malfunction (i.e.: check engine light coded you had bad oxygen sensor, try unplugging it and restarting car to see if any change in running or the MIL. If no change, try putting a known good used unit in, or buy new unit if in your budget.)
Have ECM scanned in car by authorized tech with proper scan tools specific to application (only after installing or verifying you have a good ECM). Most manufactures have specific tools to there equipment even though there are many scan tools that can do basic diagnosis. This scan should show what elements are giving you the problems. There are some ways to check error codes without scan tool. Refer to manual for key to specific application.
This insider tip is for Mitsubishi & Chrysler Vehicles and is quite helpful for diagnosing or testing your ECM. You need a analog volt/ohmmeter, put the testers on pin 1 and pin 12 (top right & bottom left pin) of diagnosis ECM scan cable harness. This harness is inside the cab area, usually in drivers side upper left of drivers kick panel. The sweeping motion left to right means ECM is OK. Sweep right to left means reverse testers to pin 12 and pin 1. A movement to the right without bounce or return means bad ECM.
Many models also have ways to check the MIL codes an indicator light on the dash or ecm or will illuminate the check engine light in series indicating the first digit then the second digit will follow and the indicators will repeat.
Your car Is not starting? As we started earlier, all efi engines need the basic elements to run:
battery power send voltage to starter to crank over the engine, and voltage references to and from ECM computer and supply power to relative components for vehicle operation
starter/solenoid
injector pulse- voltage reference from ecm to injector(s)
fuel (ecm sends voltage reference often via mpi relay to fuel pump)
spark to spark plugs to ignite the fuel/oxygen mixture for usable power
Knowing this you can then systematically check these separately.....
Power- battery/alternator system:
If you have lights, you may be OK for cranking. But if she's sat up for a while, you may want to have a battery charger or power/booster charger available and attached to your battery with a good grounded connection.
If no lights check battery voltage with multi-meter. If less than 12 volts check alternator.
If alternator bad replace, else replace battery.
If you hear clicking and have power, check starter/solenoid. (Try tapping on the starter with a wrench a couple times. This sometime can be a temporary fix to free up the locked solenoid which often locks and won't engage. Replace Starter or solenoid with known good remand or OEM model.
Injector pulse:
put a node light or meter on injector #1 to see that the ECM is sending injector pulse. If not pull ECM and look and smell for burns.
spark to plugs
check for spark at plugs, check the following if applies to your vehicle: distributor (coil, igniter, crank angle sensor, cam sensor), relay, ecu
fuel/fuel pump reference
check voltage reference from ECM or from mpi relay to fuel pump. You can often hear it kick in. You can also see the flow from pump to ensure it is solid. Be sure to do this in controlled environment! IF fuel pressure is normal, it will shoot across the room! Have a volatile fuel receptacle ready like a larger glass jar or gas can
If you have no voltage reference to fuel pump, check relay. If relay OK, check ECM for burns or smells. Test ECM.
If reference to fuel pump but no fuel pressure, check fuel pump.