Did some one say "what's a ball joint flip"

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Crash

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I don't disagree with either of you, but my truck has it prety easy, never goes off road, 3 mile drive to work at 45 mph max. I guess I should have put that in as a disclaimer. If I wheeled the truck once in a while I would have done something different. I do think there is less stress on it now that the angles are closer to stock. I'm going to keep a eye on it, those thing have crossed my mind.
 

Mercedes mechanic

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Back in the day we used to just turn up the tension on the spring of old dodges to regain 0 camber.

Not sure if you can even do that on these truck's. I'm a two wheeler, maybe I will be quiet.
 

badazzbulldog

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just to let you guys know the factory position of the ball joint is in the "flip" position on my sierra 3500
 

Swims350

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wow so if they come that way factory I see no harm in them being flipped on the lighter trucks, unless the balljoint had a ring made on top to fit in the control arm then there's no difference and no real reason not to.

As for rubbing that sucks, kinda puts 15's out of the question too.
 

Balzer

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When I started to read your post, I decided to take the red pill, as I believe GM did a great job engineering these trucks, but also feel there is a ton of improvement in many areas of these trucks.

Now after reading your post I wanna go back and take the blue pill. Common sense tells me that with the upper ball joint flange on top of the upper control arm and those four small bolts (5/16" maybe?) decide to break (due to the stress that is on them from the torsion bar trying to pry the spindle from the ball joint - supporting the weight of such a heavy vehicle), the flange will keep the upper ball joint and control arm from completely separating. Now with your setup, you can only rely on the four small bolts to keep this setup together when rolling down the highway. When these four small bolts decide they don't want to hold this all together anymore, one can probably guess a major accident will occur. Now if this truck spends any time off road and the suspension is at max articulation, I can guaruntee the forces involved will try to break theose small bolts.

I applaud your efforts for trying to fix an issue in these trucks, but I'll rely on the millions of dollars of engineering money that went into having the flange on top of the control arm. Basic knowledge of the laws of physics has made my decision.

NEVER herd of the 4 bolts breaking EVER and if someone says they have, I WILL call BS and ask for proof! Those 4 bolts ARE NOT seeing any real shear stress nor are they seeing much of any other stress EXCEPT at full droop. And even then there isnt a lot of momentum as the uppers dont have a lot of down travel even stock. ADD into the equation that the movement in the ball joint natuarally reduces the stress on the bolts. What you are talking about is when the ball joint its self separates and it DOES NOT matter if the ball joint is mounted on top or bottom of the a-arm. If the ball joint separates the top of the spindle is going to be loose no matter where the ball joint is bolted to the arm. The ball joint will separate long before those 4 little bolts break.

just to let you guys know the factory position of the ball joint is in the "flip" position on my sierra 3500

And you NEVER hear of the 4 little bolts breaking.

wow so if they come that way factory I see no harm in them being flipped on the lighter trucks, unless the balljoint had a ring made on top to fit in the control arm then there's no difference and no real reason not to.

As for rubbing that sucks, kinda puts 15's out of the question too.

Really depends on the back space of the wheels. I have flipped ball joints and 15" wheels and not even close to rubbing but I do believe the stock 16's will rub due to their backspace/offset.

And to the original poster looks good man and should help a lot with the ride it looks as though you was riding right on the droop stops before.
 
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