Cv axle replacement, how bad?

[94burbk1500]

I've got a 94 k1500 suburban 5.7l 4l60e and it needs new cv axles. How bad of a job am I getting into? Does it require pulling the knuckle apart? Should I just do the ball joints while I'm at it?

 

[454cid]

I've got a 94 k1500 suburban 5.7l 4l60e and it needs new cv axles. How bad of a job am I getting into? Does it require pulling the knuckle apart? Should I just do the ball joints while I'm at it?

If you need ball joints any way, sure do it all at once, but it's not necessary. I have a 1-ton so our trucks are not exactly the same, but still very similar.

You'll need to remove the spindle nut, which may be very hard coming off, and needs to be torqued properly going back on since it holds the bearings together in the hub. Then remove the 6 inner bolts. My CV axle is trapped at this point, and I usually remove the lower end of the shock to get clearance to remove the CV axle.... the inner portion of the axle needs to drop down, and you may need to compress the suspension before that can happen. The whole thing slides out towards the middle of the truck. Removing the anti-roll bar link would make it easier yet, but if it's rusted the link won't come out easily and cutting it is the best option. They're cheap so it's not a huge deal.

You want to be very careful not to let the CV boot touch the lower shock mount. It's position perfectly to damage the boot. It's recommended that you throw something over the lower mount like a thick rag or old towel. I used one of those thick black rubber chemical resistant gloves and it worked well.

Take a look at the seal on the back side of the spindle while you're in there. If it needs to be replaced, I'm not sure it can be easily removed with the hub still on, Though.

 

[skylark]

Like is said above, you don't have to remove the knuckle. It only takes about 30 minutes per side to do.

 

[94burbk1500]

Thanks guys! I need to do shocks too, so I'll just do them along with the axles.