Crate vortec 350, 390hp question

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mrvsfriend

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skylark

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I'm looking to put in a crate motor and came across this, does anyone have any experience with this motor? What all would i need to get it reliable? I have a 305 vortec in the 96 1500 truck now.

https://paceperformance.com/i-23869...t-main-no-mechanical-fuel-pump-provision.html

Id like to use my stock intake, and dont want to spend a fortune, should i stick with a stock 350? anything i should look out for?

Stock crate motor
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283/overview/
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MIHELA

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Sold a few of those when I worked at Chevy. It's a good all around motor. The Torque peak is at a little higher RPM than a truck motor but it makes more power overall so it's a good trade.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I'm looking to put in a crate motor and came across this, does anyone have any experience with this motor? What all would i need to get it reliable? I have a 305 vortec in the 96 1500 truck now.

https://paceperformance.com/i-23869...t-main-no-mechanical-fuel-pump-provision.html

Id like to use my stock intake, and dont want to spend a fortune, should i stick with a stock 350? anything i should look out for?

Stock crate motor
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283/overview/

I would swap to an 0411 PCM with a 5.7 Van based tune and reconfigure your exhaust to a 350 setup. 305s use a single cat and have 3 02 sensors ahead of the cat and 1 after where 350s have dual cats with 1 sensor in front of and after each cat. That motor is going to want headers and a good breathing exhaust setup anyway. personally like BBK shorties, magnaflow high flow cats on their head pipes and magnaflow exhaust but I know that gets $$$.

I would make sure they still have the vortec timing cover and reluctor in that engine or make sure you get one that does.

At the minimum use a remanufactured 4.3 S10 torque converter for the same year as your truck.

The torque curve and peaks will drop a bit under the stock intake manifold. Might also consider a cloyes 3 way adjust single roller timing chain and advance that cam 4* since it sits 1* retarded out of the box.

I would consider talking with Pace since they are the ones that do the cam swap to see if they could advance the cam 4* and leave the vortec cover and reluctor when they build your engine.

The LSA is actually 108 on that cam too.
 
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m002922

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Let me know if you end up doing this. I'm considering this as an alternative to the new L31 (with cam, springs, and rockers) that I can ship to my mechanic and not have to spend the $ to have opened up - it can just go right in (it will of course need a tune). If I could do all the work myself it wouldn't be an issue, but realistically that's not in the cards - so I'll come out ahead on labor. This package seems to cost what it does to add the HT383 cam, springs, retainers, and roller rockers (though, admittedly, this package is stamped steel 1.5s - but it does have upgraded springs and cam), with the added benefit of the warranty still being in place because of no changes.

My one concern would be the more aggressive cam not being as great for towing, but the numbers seem reasonable even for something that would tow. If I'm out to lunch someone let me know.
 

tdc917

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The glaring issue in a 96 is going to be your tuning. 0411 swap is relatively simple and will open up endless possibilities. The other thing to keep in mind is that it will be sitting in front of a 4l60e. If you do go that route, I’d be looking for a big external trans cooler.

Dollar for dollar, you’d be much better off with a low mileage 4.8 or 5.3 swap. I know it’s become extremely mainstream, but it’s a much more economical way to make big, reliable power.
 

L31MaxExpress

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The glaring issue in a 96 is going to be your tuning. 0411 swap is relatively simple and will open up endless possibilities. The other thing to keep in mind is that it will be sitting in front of a 4l60e. If you do go that route, I’d be looking for a big external trans cooler.

Dollar for dollar, you’d be much better off with a low mileage 4.8 or 5.3 swap. I know it’s become extremely mainstream, but it’s a much more economical way to make big, reliable power.

I disagree, NA especially towing the cam it requires to get a 4.8 or a 5.3 to make good power will be gutless without a 3,600 rpm stall speed and low gears. A stock 5.7 walks on a 5.3 towing and laughs at a 4.8.

I tow with a 215/224 @ 0.50 roller cam in a 350 Vortec with 200cc heads. It tows better than the factory or marine cam. I am sure the 5.13 gears don't hurt it either. I actually run about the same RPM towing in OD that I used to run towing in 3rd with the 3.73s. 5.13 x 0.75 = 3.84.

I have less in my heads/cam/intake 5.7 than I could have done a stock 6.0L swap for much less one making similar power.

I have towed cars, trucks and SUVs on a flat deck car hauler all over the place behind my Express van. 395' marine cam, tri-y headers and the L31 marine intake at the time. 4L85E with 3.73s. It had no problem running 75-80 mph in OD on the flats and dropped to 3rd on steep passes and just held its speed. 5.3 would have been double downshifting pulling less weight. Stupid 4.8 vans EMPTY double downshift on hills running 70 mph with the cruise set. I also tow a 6,000 lbs travel trailer that is 8' wide, 11' tall and 26' long. No problem running 70+ when the road allows. Roughly 2 years ago I was coming back from Oklahoma and trying to beat a bad weather front chasing me. With the 395 cam and 3.73s. I had a stiff 20-25 mph headwind. I had the thing flat too the floor in 2nd gear at 75 mph for 120 miles. Frontal area and wind drag suck on that box on wheels. Ran like 4,700 rpm the whole way and it did not miss a beat.
 
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tdc917

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I agree that if you take an L31 sitting in your truck and do cam/heads/intake/real injectors, you’ll come out ahead, especially in a towing application. But for a $3k sbc long block, my point was that at that price point you can invest the same money in an LS based iron block application and come out with a whole lot of engine.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I agree that if you take an L31 sitting in your truck and do cam/heads/intake/real injectors, you’ll come out ahead, especially in a towing application. But for a $3k sbc long block, my point was that at that price point you can invest the same money in an LS based iron block application and come out with a whole lot of engine.

If you could start with a 6.0L but you really aren't going to find one of those cheap unless it needs a complete rebuild. Even then a LQ4 is only 300 hp and 360 TQ. When you start adding more cam to it, the already weak low-midrange torque only becomes even more noticeably gutless.

I have a LQ4 with ported/milled 5.3 heads, a 220/224 cam, headers and a trailblazer SS intake in a 1987 G20 van backed to a 4L80E and 3.73 gears. Once it gets into the 3,000+ rpm range it moves pretty good and continues to make good power up to about 6,500 rpm. In the lower RPM range it is a pig. Its no better on gas than the 350 in my Express van and actually worse with a trailer behind it.
 
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