Crankshaft replacement
- Thread starter Blad
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
stutaeng
I'm Awesome
I think you will also have to remove the transmission, so you could remove the flywheel from the rear of the crankshaft/rear main cover...By then probably easier to just pull the engine and rotate it on a engine stand.
www.classicchevy.com
What is the story with your engine?
Crankshaft & Bearing Removal
Time: 2 hoursTools: standard socket set, crankshaft socket, breaker bar, feeler gaugeCost: approximately $50 for bearings and suppliesTinware: quality set of replacement main bearings, PlastigageTip: If you plan to remove the crankshaft while leaving the r
What is the story with your engine?
Hipster
I'm Awesome
^^^This.
If bearing material has been sent through the engine a full teardown and cleaning is in order or all the effort might be for naught.
It's not just the oil pan, the front of the engine has to come apart to get the timing chain loose, the rear seal retainer needs to come off etc. All much easier to do with the engine out.
Normally, I'd jack you up about "What Vehicle". C, K, SUV, Van, etc? But in this case it doesn't make any difference.
For all practical purposes...NO. Pull the engine. You stand an enormously better chance of getting the rear main seal in place, the pan gasket in place, etc.
kenh
I see nothing I hear nothing
I agree with pulling the engine. It will make the whole job much easier and you will have a better chance of making everything right in the end.
Ken
Ken
You can't push the rods up far enough for the bolts to clear the crankshaft without removing the heads, and at that point you might as well pull the engine. If you can tap the rod bolts out, you gain the clearance to swing the crank around, but then you get the fun of trying to get the rods and pistons back down without marring the crank. It's far better to remove the engine.
Why would you want to replace the crank in-truck? Why does your crank need replacing?
Why would you want to replace the crank in-truck? Why does your crank need replacing?
CNRED
Newbie
Hipster is correct. You will wind up back in the engine bay again.
Ok that sounds like a valid reason. And to answer what everyone is asking, the engine already has the top end done on it within the last 20k miles along with the bottom end bearings but we did see damage to the conn rod bearings upon replacement which i believe was caused by excessive run time on a bad cam position sensor. Motor has awsome compression, no smoke, no oil consumption but now the oil pressure has dropped again (not to 0, it doesnt drop below 20psi on hot idle and cold idle is 40) and im hearing faint signs of the rod bearings going bad again due to the damage the crank journal suffered initially so im considering buying a reconditioned crank and matching bearings to cut down on my down time and not have to wait for machine shop. Which is why i was trying to do the work without pulling the engine. So im mostly trying to save time but the rods interfering does bring up a valid point. In all honesty the engine still is very drivable and im just being very meticulous and there is no metal in the oil and the sound only happens on initial startup after its been sitting for a while. Ive heard many engines run making way more noise and this makes way less noise on startup than lets say a hemi lol and yes i know hemis make the noise due to the lifters but just to give an idea.
Head gaskets aren't that expensive, and trying to replace the crankshaft in the vehicle is kinda like your doctor checking your tonsils through your bottom. Suck it up, buttercup, and yank that motor.
Similar threads
