Considering torsion bar crank

[96-1500]

Hey everybody,
My first thread on here asked about a 14 bolt swap, and I got a lot of really useful information. You guys rock.

Anyways, my truck has a couple extra leaves in the rear, and the top one was re-arched, bringing the rear of the truck up quite a bit. Combined with the fact that this was a plow truck before I bought it (I paid for that mistake...all 4 ball joints, one outer one inner tie rod end, idler arm, sway bar link, new shocks, wheel bearing), the front end is sagging quite a bit. See picture (sorry it's so dirty, hard to wash your truck when it's below freezing).

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So I'm thinking I should bring the front end up some. The bumpstops (or whatever you call them), have very little clearance when the truck is sitting on a level surface. How much should they have? I'd like to bring the truck back closer to where it should be, but if I crank the t-bars, will they just sag again after a month? I've read quite a bit, and have gotten mixed reviews on cranking t-bars.

My other option would be new torsion bars, or some kind of a fancier lift. I'm mechanically inclined and can figure most stuff out if I have the time, but I have never done anything with the suspension on these trucks. What is the process for removing the old torsion bars, and putting new ones in? I have read that perhaps 3/4 ton bars would work. Thoughts?

Anyone have any idea what the original measurement from the bottom of the tire to the fender is on these trucks? The tires (right now) are 265/75R16s.

I won't be doing this until the weather warms up. I think I'll do a bit of a "build thread", swapping a 14-bolt in, fixing the front end, probably a better exhaust system etc. Everybody likes pictures of trucks getting torn apart.

 

[90chevstepside]

All I've heard about 3/4 ton torsion bars is that they lower the front end. It depends on how much they're cranked now, you can crank some, just don't go nuts and Max them out. If you max them put, and they angles aren't insane, them your torsion bars are beyond worn out. But remember, you'll need an alignment after you crank them, or you'll wear out your tires very quickly.

 

[96-1500]

All I've heard about 3/4 ton torsion bars is that they lower the front end. It depends on how much they're cranked now, you can crank some, just don't go nuts and Max them out. If you max them put, and they angles aren't insane, them your torsion bars are beyond worn out. But remember, you'll need an alignment after you crank them, or you'll wear out your tires very quickly.

Ok, thanks for the info. The bolts are currently turned in about halfway. I haven't touched them. I'm thinking maybe I'll try cranking them halfway between where they are now and maxing them out, see where it puts me. I can always turn them back, correct?
And yes, I'm aware of the alignment thing. I just bought a set of tires, don't wanna wreck them out of stupidity. Been there, done that.
I'm also thinking of replacing the two tie rod ends and the pitman arm that I haven't already replaced while I'm at it. Might as well.
Thanks again. Any other comments would be appreciated.

 

[woody80z28]

I cranked mine level (to the stock 1500 rear height) and the angles aren't bad. It didn't ride so soft afterwards either. The bars have 230k on them, but cranking them made them feel less worn out.

 

[90chevstepside]

Ok, thanks for the info. The bolts are currently turned in about halfway. I haven't touched them. I'm thinking maybe I'll try cranking them halfway between where they are now and maxing them out, see where it puts me. I can always turn them back, correct?
And yes, I'm aware of the alignment thing. I just bought a set of tires, don't wanna wreck them out of stupidity. Been there, done that.
I'm also thinking of replacing the two tie rod ends and the pitman arm that I haven't already replaced while I'm at it. Might as well.
Thanks again. Any other comments would be appreciated.

I didn't see this til now. Yes you can always go back down.