Confirmed brake bleeding scan tools

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Orpedcrow

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I would guess they mean no heavy-duty (semi/tractor) type trucks, buses, etc. Hard to say for sure though.
Ill say the same thing. Most use a different connector. The ones that use an OBD 2 are pinned differently than regular.
 

Caman96

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I would guess they mean no heavy-duty (semi/tractor) type trucks, buses, etc. Hard to say for sure though.
Ill say the same thing. Most use a different connector. The ones that use an OBD 2 are pinned differently than regular.
I can see that. Remember, it also says:
“will be have delays” So English doesn’t seem their first language.
 

Erik the Awful

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Funny thing, I just went out to WCJr to take a few pics for the vacuum canister thread, and I finally realized I have an aluminum RWAL. I had to redo the rear brakes when I got it running, but I never had to fix anything with the master cylinder, and all the time I've been under the hood I've ignored the master cylinder. I thought I had non-ABS brakes. Now I'm more curious what it takes to bleed an aluminum RWAL. I have nothing on the spreadsheet for that so far.
 

Schurkey

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Do the delete and be better off.
ZERO reason to delete a functional ABS unit.

Most "non-functional" ABS units need nothing more than to be properly bled--which typically requires a scan tool or at least specialized procedures.

Some ABS units actually fail. THOSE may present a problem severe enough to warrant removal/deletion. MAYBE.

GMT400 vehicles got a reputation for piss-poor braking largely because of the leading/trailing shoe rear brakes, (installed on the majority of trucks built--nearly all the 1500 pickups plus some others) and somewhat due to nobody bothering to bleed the ABS units.
 

Schurkey

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Afterwards--"field service". I suspect MANY of these ABS units have never been properly bled since they were manufactured. Brake linings and even the iron (rotors and drums) have been replaced multiple times, calipers and wheel cylinders replaced once or twice...but nobody bothered to get the original, filthy fluid and accumulated air out of the ABS unit.
 

Tomcat71

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My control unit was junk and the abs block had a bad solenoid, and I wasnt paying 200 bucks to continue to have **** ass brakes. I deleted mine (which you cant bleed by itself anyway) and installed a nonstep master and now I have a good solid pedal and brakes that work like they should have from the factory. I see nothing wrong with the 10 inch rear brakes if kept in proper adjustment and kept clean. Mine work just fine. ABS is just a useless gimmick and a crutch for not knowing how to drive and maintain control of your vehicle anyway.
 

Schurkey

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My control unit was junk and the abs block had a bad solenoid,
Yup, sometimes they really are defective.

installed a nonstep master and now I have a good solid pedal and brakes that work like they should have from the factory.
They DO NOT work like they should have from the factory if you still have low-drag calipers.

The step-bore master cylinder provides both reasonable pedal effort, AND superb pedal travel when used with low-drag calipers. A straight-bore master can do one or the other, not both.

I see nothing wrong with the 10 inch rear brakes if kept in proper adjustment
That's one of two inherent problems with them, though. They won't stay in adjustment. The other problem is that 10" drums are just not big enough to be effective when the truck is loaded.

ABS is just a useless gimmick and a crutch for not knowing how to drive and maintain control of your vehicle anyway.
Folks panic in emergencies. That's human nature. ABS allows steering control when folks flip-out and dynamite the brake pedal under stress.

Very Damned Few people can genuinely control their braking foot when the chips are down and the adrenaline is squirting.
 
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