Southern Pride
I'm Awesome
OP, let me try to explain. I didn't read any other responses so sorry if I'm repeating anything.
All that the actual LIFT for a truck does is drop all of the suspension components down to allow for bigger tires. The lift kit itself actually DOES NOT increase ground clearance.
Ground clearance is described as the distance from the ground to the bottom of the axles or any other parts. The higher off the ground you get the axles or any other parts the easier you will clear things offroad and have better approach angles.
The ONLY thing that actually increases ground clearance (raises the lowest point at which the truck could rub something) is TIRE SIZE.
So, therefore you take a stock Z71 with 33" tires and a Z71 with a 6" lift and 33" tires and the lifted one actually has no more ground clearance than the stock heigh one. All that 6" lift does is allow for the bigger tires and once that lifted Z71 actually puts on 35's or 37's he increases the height his front and rear axles are off the ground, therefore increasing ground clearance and adding usable lift for the trails.
This is why we laugh at these kids out in Central California, where the fad is to put a 12" lift on a truck but run 33's with very big wide wheels. I understand that setup is good for the dunes but it's just funny that all that lift and they have no more real usable lift than a stock Z71 on 33's...I hope this makes sense to you. It took me a minute to get the concept that a lift installed on the front actually drops the axles too add bigger tires and that in turn increases ground clearance.
That's basically it. My truck is on 37's and I have all the ground clearance I'd ever need but I never go offroad because until next year this truck is my Daily Driver/ Every day work truck. Also, going offroad was fun when I was 16 and didn't really appreciate keeping a nice truck but now I do and I basically am obsessed with the looks of a lifted truck and also almost being eye level when I pass semi's on the interstate. The view from inside the truck riding around town all day is just awesome. You just have to know the difference between the WRONG way to lift a truck, and the RIGHT way. Mine actually rides better than it did @ stock height. You also need to pick the right gear ratio so that you're engine doesn't have to work hard. You'll get good gas mileage and it will essentially drive like it did stock. Also, when you run big tires (which I consider anything over 35") you need to be responsible for that extra 100lbs of weight on each wheel hub. You gotta keep up with tie rods, balljoints, hub bearings, and all that stuff, but all of that knowledge is at your disposal here on this forum. If you have any other questions, just send me a PM.
Griffin
EDIT: I see now that the wise ones have already stated everything that I've said and to the OP (original poster) everything I described above is in regards to a real suspension lift (the best) a body lift is not near as good as a suspension lift and is less desirable. However, for 1/10th the price of a suspension lift you can get a good 3" of lift in order to fit a bigger tire but they are mainly undesirable because 1. Cosmetically they just do not look very good but there are ways to hide 2. They seperate the body of the truck from the frame. I'm not going to go into all the reasons that's not desirable, should be pretty straight forward, HOWEVER the 1 good thing I will say about the body lift is it's cheap, and more importantly it does not affect your front suspension in any way so your truck will ride just as well as it did before other than lifting the body up you may feel a little more lean going around corners.
Another one that is by far the most abused and some people take over board is cranking your torsion bars. It's easy and free and will lift your truck but will make all of your front suspension just wear terrible and you will hate the way your truck rides. The best way is to only crank an 1" and keep your suspension angles good and then body lift or suspension lift to get the desired stance.
All that the actual LIFT for a truck does is drop all of the suspension components down to allow for bigger tires. The lift kit itself actually DOES NOT increase ground clearance.
Ground clearance is described as the distance from the ground to the bottom of the axles or any other parts. The higher off the ground you get the axles or any other parts the easier you will clear things offroad and have better approach angles.
The ONLY thing that actually increases ground clearance (raises the lowest point at which the truck could rub something) is TIRE SIZE.
So, therefore you take a stock Z71 with 33" tires and a Z71 with a 6" lift and 33" tires and the lifted one actually has no more ground clearance than the stock heigh one. All that 6" lift does is allow for the bigger tires and once that lifted Z71 actually puts on 35's or 37's he increases the height his front and rear axles are off the ground, therefore increasing ground clearance and adding usable lift for the trails.
This is why we laugh at these kids out in Central California, where the fad is to put a 12" lift on a truck but run 33's with very big wide wheels. I understand that setup is good for the dunes but it's just funny that all that lift and they have no more real usable lift than a stock Z71 on 33's...I hope this makes sense to you. It took me a minute to get the concept that a lift installed on the front actually drops the axles too add bigger tires and that in turn increases ground clearance.
That's basically it. My truck is on 37's and I have all the ground clearance I'd ever need but I never go offroad because until next year this truck is my Daily Driver/ Every day work truck. Also, going offroad was fun when I was 16 and didn't really appreciate keeping a nice truck but now I do and I basically am obsessed with the looks of a lifted truck and also almost being eye level when I pass semi's on the interstate. The view from inside the truck riding around town all day is just awesome. You just have to know the difference between the WRONG way to lift a truck, and the RIGHT way. Mine actually rides better than it did @ stock height. You also need to pick the right gear ratio so that you're engine doesn't have to work hard. You'll get good gas mileage and it will essentially drive like it did stock. Also, when you run big tires (which I consider anything over 35") you need to be responsible for that extra 100lbs of weight on each wheel hub. You gotta keep up with tie rods, balljoints, hub bearings, and all that stuff, but all of that knowledge is at your disposal here on this forum. If you have any other questions, just send me a PM.
Griffin
EDIT: I see now that the wise ones have already stated everything that I've said and to the OP (original poster) everything I described above is in regards to a real suspension lift (the best) a body lift is not near as good as a suspension lift and is less desirable. However, for 1/10th the price of a suspension lift you can get a good 3" of lift in order to fit a bigger tire but they are mainly undesirable because 1. Cosmetically they just do not look very good but there are ways to hide 2. They seperate the body of the truck from the frame. I'm not going to go into all the reasons that's not desirable, should be pretty straight forward, HOWEVER the 1 good thing I will say about the body lift is it's cheap, and more importantly it does not affect your front suspension in any way so your truck will ride just as well as it did before other than lifting the body up you may feel a little more lean going around corners.
Another one that is by far the most abused and some people take over board is cranking your torsion bars. It's easy and free and will lift your truck but will make all of your front suspension just wear terrible and you will hate the way your truck rides. The best way is to only crank an 1" and keep your suspension angles good and then body lift or suspension lift to get the desired stance.
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but just remmember wile your turnin heads in your fresh ride im breakin necks in mine
