Electric choke is not wired up.
No wonder it doesn't start properly.
When you do get time to route some wires, doing this right means:
1.
Select a power source that's hot ONLY with the key in the "Run" position. NOT hot in "Accessory", "Off--locked", "Off", or "Crank".
You don't want the choke to heat when the engine is off, or when cranking. You want the choke to heat ONLY when the key is in the "Run" position.
2.
Route the power through a normally-open oil pressure switch. These switches typically have three terminals--one to power the dash warning light, and two as a pass-through (power in--power out) for the choke when the switch has oil pressure. You don't want the choke to heat if the engine stalls even if the key is in "Run". For example, you start the car in the dead of winter, then let it "warm up" while you go inside for another cuppa coffee. Engine stalls--choke needs to not be heating so when you get back outside, it's closed enough to re-start.
Remember that the choke coil is adjusted so that the choke OPENS properly, DO NOT ADJUST IT BASED ON HOW IT CLOSES.
The Choke Pulloff is the most-commonly misadjusted part of the choke system. Folks will endlessly piss 'n' moan over the choke coil adjustment, turning it richer/leaner/richer/leaner; when the real trouble is the choke pulloff.
