96k1500
Ballin on a budget
Wouldnt be smart, if the fuel lines are leaking on top of the tank and he starts cutting the floor of the bed out could likely not turn out to great
can't remove my bed
- Thread starter mduryea88
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Wouldnt be smart, if the fuel lines are leaking on top of the tank and he starts cutting the floor of the bed out could likely not turn out to great
Swims350
I'm Awesome
only way I'd ever do it, cover the tank and lines with a welding blanket or something, drill a hole in the bed and use shears. sawzall would be next but it sparks too.
Most ppl do one of the 3 that's why I said it. it's either remove bed, drop tank or cut access hole.
I would never cut a hole over the tank for any reason good shape or not, too much of a risk, for me dropping the tank is much easier then a bed anyday.
There is only one bolt that's the rear strap to remove, in the back and strap doesn't need cut or anything, the front has a 4 bolt crossmember with strap that can be unbolted and dropped down and out, same way I did mine. My bolts were stripped and way too tight so I ground their heads off, knocked them out of the bracket once the tank was out(they press in like wheel studs) and replaced with bolts, washers, lockwashers, lock nuts and loctite.
The rear bolt is in the bed crosssill under the truck closest to the driveshaft and it's 18 or 15mm head, the side frame bolts are near the back cab mount and 4 of them(pretty sure, might be 3) and they are either 13 or 15mm heads, I done mine last summer so I'm a bit foggy.
On a side note once my rear was loose, I loosened the front strap not the crossmember/bracket and the back of the tank would drop a good bit, so might want to try and loosen those strap bolts and see if it drops enough to get in and work.
Most ppl do one of the 3 that's why I said it. it's either remove bed, drop tank or cut access hole.
I would never cut a hole over the tank for any reason good shape or not, too much of a risk, for me dropping the tank is much easier then a bed anyday.
There is only one bolt that's the rear strap to remove, in the back and strap doesn't need cut or anything, the front has a 4 bolt crossmember with strap that can be unbolted and dropped down and out, same way I did mine. My bolts were stripped and way too tight so I ground their heads off, knocked them out of the bracket once the tank was out(they press in like wheel studs) and replaced with bolts, washers, lockwashers, lock nuts and loctite.
The rear bolt is in the bed crosssill under the truck closest to the driveshaft and it's 18 or 15mm head, the side frame bolts are near the back cab mount and 4 of them(pretty sure, might be 3) and they are either 13 or 15mm heads, I done mine last summer so I'm a bit foggy.
On a side note once my rear was loose, I loosened the front strap not the crossmember/bracket and the back of the tank would drop a good bit, so might want to try and loosen those strap bolts and see if it drops enough to get in and work.
96k1500
Ballin on a budget
Im willing to guess the rclbs maybe all long beds not sure are different, my 96 had 2 straps instead of one strap and a cross member, however lifting the bed off actually entails less work than dropping the tank, take out the bolts on the drivers side, loosen the bolts on passenger side, unhook the filler neck and use a hi-lift jack to lift one side of the bed
96-1500
Bluenoser
I used an air chisel and cut a hole in the bed. Too easy.
I've dropped tanks before too, not too bad of a job. If the tank has lots of fuel in it, you'll want two jacks with wood between them and the tank. It's a lot easier to deal with a seized gas tank strap bolt than a seized bed bolt, IMO.
I've never seen the advantage in removing the bed. Too much work (at least, up here in rust country it is). Unless of course you want to clean the frame up while you're in there, which would be highly recommended.
I've dropped tanks before too, not too bad of a job. If the tank has lots of fuel in it, you'll want two jacks with wood between them and the tank. It's a lot easier to deal with a seized gas tank strap bolt than a seized bed bolt, IMO.
I've never seen the advantage in removing the bed. Too much work (at least, up here in rust country it is). Unless of course you want to clean the frame up while you're in there, which would be highly recommended.
Swims350
I'm Awesome
I agree I'd rather drop the tank anyday then remove the bed, more work for sure.
But now I guess they must be different since mine has the front strap and rear strap but the front has a half crossmember under it that unbolts which is what I did. air chisel or reg. chisel would work on them too since they are outside the frame.
But now I guess they must be different since mine has the front strap and rear strap but the front has a half crossmember under it that unbolts which is what I did. air chisel or reg. chisel would work on them too since they are outside the frame.
Blazed
The Blazed One
I'd remove the bed for access to everything under it. I would pressure wash and wire wheel it all then, coat it with some bedliner or POR-15.
Penetrating Oils Compared
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
mduryea88
Newbie
thanks for the many suggestions, the plan was to wire wheel the frame while it was off then spray it, so that most likely be the plan. I'm gonna try and make that atf acetone mix, lets see if it works.
zilverado71
Newbie
Awesome penetrating oil tip^^!
Here's my two cents... and I just did this about two weeks ago. If you have severe rust.. do this. Buy a 1/2" breaker bar from local tool store. (Non wratcheting is the strongest) Buy a good one, or two cheap ones. Put your socket in place. Beat the f*** out of it on there with a hammer so its in there good. Lay on ground and pry of tire to break the bolt free. It shouldn't break the bolt..May spin the nut off though. If this happens then your kinda boned and you will have to do what I did. Which is loosen the rest of the bolts, take them out so you can shake the bed and almost remove it (except for the 1 bolt.) Then MAN UP and rip the bed off that silly bolt. Flip bed upside down, and (if you have a welder) make a bracket for the new bolt to thread into. Reuse the pad that the bolt cradles into. Sounds complicated but here's a picture..
This is what it looks like installed.
I also suggest, if you have that much rust that you RE ENFORCE THE BED. Pretty easy, just weld in some steel. It makes a massive difference if its all rotted out. Only cost me about 30 bucks in steel.
Here's my two cents... and I just did this about two weeks ago. If you have severe rust.. do this. Buy a 1/2" breaker bar from local tool store. (Non wratcheting is the strongest) Buy a good one, or two cheap ones. Put your socket in place. Beat the f*** out of it on there with a hammer so its in there good. Lay on ground and pry of tire to break the bolt free. It shouldn't break the bolt..May spin the nut off though. If this happens then your kinda boned and you will have to do what I did. Which is loosen the rest of the bolts, take them out so you can shake the bed and almost remove it (except for the 1 bolt.) Then MAN UP and rip the bed off that silly bolt. Flip bed upside down, and (if you have a welder) make a bracket for the new bolt to thread into. Reuse the pad that the bolt cradles into. Sounds complicated but here's a picture..
You must be registered for see images attach
It only took about 3 hours for all this. And it's damn strong. This is what it looks like installed.
You must be registered for see images attach
I also suggest, if you have that much rust that you RE ENFORCE THE BED. Pretty easy, just weld in some steel. It makes a massive difference if its all rotted out. Only cost me about 30 bucks in steel.
You must be registered for see images attach
Last edited:
