Can't figure out backfire through throttle body

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Mitch4x4

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Just recently picked up this 1995 chevy c1500 5.0, and i've been struggling with this backfiring issue i cant seem to pin point the issue. I've put a new distributer in and timed it. Any help would be appreciated
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Road Trip

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Just recently picked up this 1995 chevy c1500 5.0, and i've been struggling with this backfiring issue i cant seem to pin point the issue. I've put a new distributer in and timed it. Any help would be appreciated
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That's an interesting video. Steady popping back through the throttle body like that
suggests something along the lines of a leaky intake valve allowing a small part of a
cylinder's compression stroke to blow back into the intake manifold > back through the throttle body?

Here's a series of questions I would want to answer in order to further the diagnosis:

1) Is the computer throwing any codes? If so, what are they?

2) Is the idle quality smooth, as in all 8 cylinders firing equally? Or is it more like 7 cylinders
+ 1 weaker cylinder?

3) If it was me, I would definitely pull all 8 plugs, keep them in order, and take a 'family photo'
so that we can see if there is an outlier, especially if it correlates to a cylinder with a weaker
reading than the other cylinders during a compression test?

4) While all 8 plugs are out, perform a compression test & see what we have to work with?
If all are within 5-10% of each other, record the data, stop here, and either reinstall the
existing plugs/or fresh plugs. (your call)

5) IF one or more cylinders are much lower than the others, then perform a leakdown test
on the offending cylinder(s). If you actually had a bent/leaky intake valve, the leakdown test
would confirm it by the sound of escaping compressed air not from the exhaust, or the
oil fill opening, but from the throttle body itself.

6) Another easy 'old school' troubleshooting tool is a vacuum gauge. On a healthy engine
the vacuum gauge would give you a steady reading at a warm idle from ~14-19". (Depending on cam,
altitude, ignition timing, etc.) On the engine in the video above, I would expect the vacuum gauge to
be 'jumpy', and a good (fast) gauge would jump in time to the kick back through the throttle body.

7) Tightening/correlating the diagnosis: It may be just the angle that the video was taken, but
it seems that the driver's side throttle body opening is the one with mixture blowing back? IF
this is correct, then we've got the bad actor cylinder narrowed down to 1 of the 4 that is fed
by that side of the intake manifold? IF the blowback is from both left & right throttles, then
then not so much.

In a perfect world, step #7 would correlate with a bad cylinder found on the compression test
in step #4, and furthermore the leakdown test in step #5 would be hissing out of the throttle
body.

Disclaimer:

I jumped right into testing the engine for mechanical integrity based upon the assumption
that you have already verified that the engine is in a good state of tune. (Fresh plugs, wires,
distributor cap, etc. In other words, all the normal steps to make a healthy engine run smooth
have already been accomplished. Then again, when the intake charge is being kicked back at
a steady pace like what's shown in your video usually means that 7 cylinders are working
properly, but 1 cylinder is periodically pressurizing the intake during it's compression stroke.

Looking forward to your observations on as many of the questions above as you can answer.
Great video, BTW -- if we can diagnose/solve your problem this would be a great read for others
experiencing similar symptoms with their TBI small blocks.

Happy hunting -- good luck!
 
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L31MaxExpress

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Did you disconnect the EST timing connector when you set the timing? Have you verified the harmonic balancer ring has not slipped? Verified the firing order? It is very easy to goober up 5 & 7.

What is the fuel pressure when you are snapping the throttle like that?
 

Mitch4x4

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There is no check engine lights and the truck idles smooth. when you slowly give it throttle it seems less likely to backfire. When i get another warm day this week i will go check the firing order and plugs. Does not seem to have a dead cylinder but will get that checked to. It does have a good size crack on the manifold right in front of the 7th cylinder could that be an issue?
Another thing, when i was replacing the distributor it didn't come out very easy like it had a burr or something then when i reassembled it i had the same thing going back in where is didn't want to go in from that burr. I ended up putting it to the next spot clockwise and it fell right in like it was supposed to.
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Mitch4x4

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Did you disconnect the EST timing connector when you set the timing? Have you verified the harmonic balancer ring has not slipped? Verified the firing order? It is very easy to goober up 5 & 7.

What is the fuel pressure when you are snapping the throttle like that?
I did unplug that connector when i did the timing, i will have to double check the firing order
 

GoToGuy

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A cracked manifold? Your asking, so you have not addressed that issue? Did you spray any WD 40 or a squirt of either to see if its all the through, the engine picks up extra juice through crack? A burr, did you examine gear closely? Look down dist hole at cam gear condition ? Account for gear turning to mesh into helical cut? Oil pump drive moved on exit or entry?
Checking fuel pressure and a new filter good idea. Will still run with weak pump, just not run well, or low on power.
 

Schurkey

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The usual causes of intake-manifold backfiring:
1. Lean fuel mix. Low fuel pressure, plugged fuel passages, weak injectors, screwed-up computer tune, etc. The slow burn of the fuel mix means there's still fire in the chamber on overlap, and it ignites what's in the intake port--and then the rest of the plenum.

2. Leaking intake valve. Combustion flame blows past a leaking/burnt intake valve or valve seat, perhaps a broken valve spring doesn't properly close the valve. Ignites the air/fuel in the intake runner, and then the rest of the plenum.

3. Exhaust valve won't open, or won't open far enough. Failed lifter/cam lobe, bent pushrod, broken rocker. Exhaust gas can't escape, it's still there, and at high pressure when the intake valve opens. Exhaust fills the runner and plenum, maybe ignites the air-fuel mix there.
 

GODTITAN

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Id like to hear more on this matter, mine does the same thing but it only backfires if the throttle is blipped. If slowly pushed its like it works itself out after a slight hesitation and then does smoothly through to high rpms. If I try to take off though it just falls completely on its face and wants to die no matter how high the rpms are when letting out the clutch
 

Mitch4x4

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I have found my issue. I learned to take someone's word with a grain of salt when buying vehicles, the ad had said there was new plugs and wires on the truck but clearly they havn't been touched in years by the looks of it. truck runs awesome now.

Thanks everyone for the pointers!
 

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