Brake light switch

[Portedfrankenstien]

So I got pulled over yesterday, because my brake lights weren't working. I went home, and started checking things. Turns work. Fuses are good. Hazards work. But all three brake lights don't. I pressed the test button on my trailer brake controller, and sure enough, all three came on. So, I would assume that marking the brake light switch as the issue, would be the correct diagnosis. The only issue I'm having is that on every other automatic trans I've ever seen, you can't get the vehicle out of park when the stop lamp switch is bad. But I'm having no trouble there. I bought a new switch, but didn't get the time to put it in today, plus I'm hesitant about doing so without being sure, because I don't really feel like pulling my steering column out in the 20 degree weather, for no real reason. Any advise?

 

[Ironhead]

Since the brake light switch operates the brake lights, allows the trans to shift, and changes the way the bulbs work so that you can have turn signals, there is obviously a relay in there somewhere. That's what I'd track down and analyze.

Good luck on this, and I share your feelings about working on a truck in the lousy weather.

 

[someotherguy]

There are multiple sets of contacts in the brake switch. It operates your brake lights, torque converter clutch unlock, cruise disengage, blah blah blah. Just because one set is working doesn't mean the others are. If you ever crack one open you'll see just how flimsy the whole mess is. Over time the leafs get weak and can break off.

A new switch is cheap (about $20) and easy to replace. On 1995-up it's a little harder to reach but not impossible unless you have enormous ham fists. Around 1995 or so they changed the rectangular clip to a round one; the round one can be a little tricky to remove but if you spin it around on the brake pedal stud you'll see a split in it with a half-circle on each side. Place small snap ring pliers in the hole and spread the split gently, then you can slide the clip off the pedal. The switch then unclips from the booster rod and comes right off. This is for 1994-up by the way; 1993-down are different and those older ones must be adjusted after install. 1994-up there is no adjustment, just install and it's done.

Richard

 

[kennythewelder]

A test light is very helpfull in finding out if the switch is working. That is how I traced mine down when it quit. I don't rember though what wire is what. Richard is rite on his advice. The switch is accessible from under the column, laying on the floor of the truck.

 

[someotherguy]

Probably shoulda mentioned that the first few years of that switch design (1994-up) had a high failure rate and there was even a recall on them after a while. My old 1994 C2500LD had record of having that recall.

Richard

 

[strikk]

I've replaced the brake pedal switch twice in my 98. Both times I was unaware of the issue until my friends told me my lights were out.

It's an easy $20 fix


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[Portedfrankenstien]

So everything I've seen says that you have to drop the steering column down, in order to get to the switch. But I looked it up on alldata today, and it only calls for a half an hour. I'll just have to get under there tomorrow, and see where it's at I guess. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[someotherguy]

I've never dropped a column to do one, on either the old or new interior style. Again the 1995-up is a bit more cramped, but not impossible.

Richard

 

[strikk]

I agree with someotherguy, i've never had to remove the column. it just requires some patience