Boxing the frame??

[Biggershaft96]

Well I started thinkin about it and is worth it to box the frame on a half ton? I'm gonna build a plow mount this week and I saw the thread about them and how the frames crack, so I was thinking while I'm mounting that on I could just box the frame while I'm at it. Long term I want to build a bulletproof 350 that makes decent numbers on the dyno (nothin crazy maybe 350hp) and an Allison tranny for ease of pulling and durability. But i do pull some heavy sometimes and don't want my frame cracking or breaking. Any suggestions or input would be appreciated.

 

[thz71]

The front of the frame where the plow mounts is boxed from the factory so boxing won't help with that problem but it is worth boxing the back half I will be going so when I SAS

 

[98_k1500]

I'd be looking into swapping the body onto a 3/4 ton frame. Larger differentials and stiffer springs to go with the added frame strength. No experience with boxing the frame tho, We don't plow down here. Someone on here can tell you how much trouble it is and if its worth it or not im sure..

 

[great white]

Go to plowsite dot com and search for the frame gussets thread for Chevy pickups.

The front of the frame where you will be mounting the plow is already boxed. You need the gussets to prevent (the possibility) frame cracking.

 

[Biggershaft96]

If it comes boxed it must not be very great if it can crack through it. I was gonna use 1/4 or 3/8 by 4 flat stock. It can't be that hard. Just drop the fuel tank and lift up the body a little

 

[sewlow]

Go from the rear cab mounts back to the rear leaf mounts.
It's not as simple as just dropping the tank & lifting the box. There are the cross-members to deal with, & after the rear end, the last cross-member is not the same from side to side. It's on an angle over top of the spare-tire mount. Can't make 2 for that in a mirror image to fit both sides.

 

[polar]

If you are boxing the frame, ditch the two cross members in the rear and put square or rectangular tube in its place


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[great white]

If it comes boxed it must not be very great if it can crack through it. I was gonna use 1/4 or 3/8 by 4 flat stock. It can't be that hard. Just drop the fuel tank and lift up the body a little

No, the factory front frame section is just fine. More so when you consider the 1500's were not meant to be used this way.

Its the added weight that's the problem. It has to do with how the frame is loaded in front of the front suspension mounting points and the resultant stress riser on the front suspension frame mounts.

The frame gussets add the required strength in this area and gives the stress another load path to follow instead of just "piling up" where the upper suspension mount point weld ism(ie: weak point)

The 2000+ 2500HD/3500 frames came with these gussets OEM. The frame cracking on plow trucks essentially stopped on those models. A few years later gm dropped those gussets (I can only guess for cost cutting) and the cracking while plowing problem returned.....worse if equipped with a plow and a spreader in the bed.

If you want to box the rear section, go right ahead. Won't do jack for the frame cracking from plowing.

 

[Biggershaft96]

If you are boxing the frame, ditch the two cross members in the rear and put square or rectangular tube in its place


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I like this idea. If that's you guys think that's possible, i have a spare in the bed anyways so I don't need one under (that one is stuck somehow). And ya I realize it's a bit more complex then that, was just hittin the highlights. Is it already boxed all the way to the back to rear cab mounts then ?

 

[Biggershaft96]

No, the factory front frame section is just fine. More so when you consider the 1500's were not meant to be used this way.

Its the added weight that's the problem. It has to do with how the frame is loaded in front of the front suspension mounting points and the resultant stress riser on the front suspension frame mounts.

The frame gussets add the required strength in this area and gives the stress another load path to follow instead of just "piling up" where the upper suspension mount point weld ism(ie: weak point)

The 2000+ 2500HD/3500 frames came with these gussets OEM. The frame cracking on plow trucks essentially stopped on those models. A few years later gm dropped those gussets (I can only guess for cost cutting) and the cracking while plowing problem returned.....worse if equipped with a plow and a spreader in the bed.

If you want to box the rear section, go right ahead. Won't do jack for the frame cracking from plowing.

I was gonna do those gussets anyway. If it won't do anything for the front ill scratch that idea then. Just wasn't sure what the problem or weak areas were.