AC Compressor issue

[glendayle]

Can anyone tell me how much oil the system takes. compressor says it needs PAG46, but I don't know how much I need.

 

[glendayle]

Condenser and flush the lines. Once the compressor has failed, especially internally, there will be debris in the system. The orifice tube will tell the tale. If it's anything but perfectly clean, then there is crap sitting in the condenser and you can't effectively flush a serpentine or parallel flow condenser. Replace it, flush the hoses and evap, replace what you mentioned, put in the correct oil charge, and charge it to spec.

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Thanks. Went and had my refrigerant removed tonight. My guy looked at my hoses and said that they were showing signs of starting to leak or if they weren't leaking yet, it would probably be prudent to replace them anyway. It's a little extra money, but I think I'm going to do an entire system replacement.

 

[someotherguy]

In a completely dry system - in other words you have flushed out all the hard lines, evaporator, etc. and the new compressor has no oil (some are shipped with, some are shipped dry - dry ones will be marked) - a regular GMT400 truck system is 8 oz of oil. If it's a dual air setup like some of the SUV's come with rear air, those take 11 oz.

Richard

 

[glendayle]

Well, pulled out the condenser last Saturday.

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Here is a pic of the orifice tube. Not in focus, but there is metal all over it. I decided to replace the entire system. Just waiting for all of the parts to get here. Put them in ASAP.

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[glendayle]

Well, fun day today. Spent about 8 hours doing this project. Some of it I was just going slow because I was still waiting for my condenser to show up(finally did around 4pm). Anyway, dash removed, reinstalled, replaced entire AC system. I'll get it charged sometime this week and hopefully cold air will be here again.

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[Ironhead]

After all hat expense and work, I really hopes you freeze next time you turn the system on!

 

[glendayle]

Oh, and I only had one screw left over.

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[glendayle]

Good news bad news. Good news is that there are no leaks and air is ice cold. Bad news is that air will only blow out on the feet. Vents and defrost zones aren't working.

Not sure where to start. I have all of the actuators hooked up. I think they are working because the air sounds change when I switch the dial.

My buddy said it is a vacuum leak.

Manual suggests some kinked or disconnected hoses.

IDK, suggestions appreciated.

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[someotherguy]

No vacuum at all used on the HVAC controls of a GMT400 that is equipped with A/C. Even some of the factory service manuals still refer to vacuum lines so erroneous information is out there all over the place. All 3 actuators are electric, no cables, no vacuum.

The actuator for the vent positions can be problematic, or to be more specific, the linkages on it. (It's the only one with linkages.) Look above the driver's side of the transmission hump and you can see this actuator. The linkages are 2 sets of metal strips that slide against each other, with a spring in the middle.

The strips are lubricated with a thin grease and over time it gums up. You can gently clean them by spraying with some WD40 and wipe them, work them carefully through their motions, lay some newspaper on the carpet to protect it. Re-lube with a little bit of white lithium grease.

Sometimes the push nut on the linkage can fall off, and the linkage can also fall apart.

The 1995-up controls are somewhat notorious for going bad in a way that prevents proper actuator function. Especially if the radio has been out and the antenna lead left to dangle; it will short out the exposed circuit board on those controls.

Worst case scenario, and last one to worry yourself with, is it seems more likely on the 1995-up trucks for some reason that the flap itself can break right at the end where it pivots and the linkage attaches.

Richard

 

[glendayle]

Thanks Richard. I'll check out those items.

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