97 K1500 DD/Overlander

[mdnky]

03.24.2024

Weather was a bit nicer (warmer), so I managed to get a bit more done today. I did a quick light touchup on the passengers side first, to give it a bit of a head start in drying.

You must be registered for see images attach

I cleaned the drivers side with the blower, then used a can of brake clean to make sure everything was clean and ready for treatment with Corroseal.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I also put a heavy coat of satin black enamel (still wet in pic) on the passenger's side just before calling it a day. I'll coat the drivers side tomorrow, then start the reassembly process.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mdnky]

03.25.2024

The weather was great today. I started the day by putting a heavy coat of satin black enamel on the drivers side.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then I grabbed some parts from the pile and started to reassemble the front suspension.

You must be registered for see images attach

First up was the passenger side lower ball joint, which (of course) decided to be a bear. Took the better part of 3 hours to get it in, mainly due to needing to let the cordless impact cool down. Definitely wish I had access to better quality one (Makita, Milwaukee, etc.), but the little Ryobi eventually made it though. I had to reposition the press a bunch, plus use a bit of BFH persuasion. That damaged the fresh paint on the LCA, so it looks like I'll need to touch that up as well.

You must be registered for see images attach

Probably didn't help that the end of the screw on the loaner press is slightly bent, but eventually I was able to get it seated. I didn't strip the press or do any more damage to it, so that's a win. Amazing what a little grease and some patience can do.

You must be registered for see images attach

About midway through I also realized I forgot to order the replacement inner CV boot for the passenger's side. I took a quick lunch break and ordered a replacement from Rock Auto [$26.90], which should be here on Wednesday. I also ordered some GM Genuine axle nuts from Amazon [$18.86], which will also be in tomorrow. While rock auto was almost half the price on the nuts, they would ship from a different warehouse and with the extra shipping ended up costing a few dollars more than Amazon.

The driver side lower ball joint went on quite a bit easier (under 10 minutes.)

You must be registered for see images attach

RUNNING TOTAL: $6481.23

 

[mdnky]

03.25.2024 (cont...)

FedEX delivered the mounting bolts and washers I ordered from Zoro for the hubs. Didn't like the price or the thought of using those Dorman replacements ($25-$35 for three), so I grabbed some nice socket head cap screws (M14-2.00 x 50, class 12.9) instead. A 25-pack of bolts plus a 50-pack of washers [$17.29]...guess I'll have some spares.

You must be registered for see images attach

I started to install the sway bar links, but ran into a few issues. The washers included with the links are all the same size, which is slightly too big to fit into the lower control arm. Usually the kits have two smaller washers for this reason. Thought about it for a bit, then ended up clamping two of them in vise grips and sanding the opposing edges with the band file sander. Hit it them with a bit of black paint as well.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The washers will fit through sideways and can be turned. I had to use a second bolt to aid in getting everything in place, but it works. That said, I couldn't get the sway bar connected and will need to reevaluate that a bit. Jacking under the LCA and using a ratchet strap didn't help. The bolts holding the main frame side sway bar bushings are heavily corroded and will definitely not be easy to remove. I stripped the rear passenger one easily a few days ago, which is concerning with the limited access to the forward bolt. I actually have the replacement bushings on hand, but given the hassle it'll be to change I had decided to leave the old ones in place. They're in relatively decent shape, and I need to get this project moving forward. So I definitely need to figure out a way to get them attached without dropping the main bar.


I can't put the passenger CV in yet (waiting on parts), but I did put the upper control arms on both sides. On the drivers side, I installed the CV shaft and shock.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

To round out the day I used the grinder and a wire wheel on the back of the passenger's knuckle and both sides of the driver's knuckle. After a quick cleaning I coated each with two heavy coats of Corroseal. I'll paint these tomorrow after it cures. Seems I forgot to grab a picture of that, as I was in a hurray to grab dinner.


RUNNING TOTAL: $6498.52

 

[Laredo]

While you're not seeking to make the truck perfect, I appreciate that you're being thorough and doing things the right way. Keep up the good work.

 

[mdnky]

03.26.2024

Threw a quick heavy coat of paint on the knuckles, and did a bit of touchup to the LCA ends damaged by the lower ball joint install.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The bed of the old C1500 is in dire need of some TLC. For now, the excess Coorroseal and overspray from stuff like painting the knuckles will have to do. It'll get removed soon, as the tentative plan is to do a spray-in liner with Raptor this summer along with some minor bodywork (cab corners, bed wheel arches).

 

[mdnky]

03.28.2024

Started off the day by tackling the sway bar issue. Managed to get the bolts off the drivers side mount relatively easily. The forward bolt on the passenger's broke loose easily, but started to be problematic once it was roughly 3/4 the way out. Left it there and worked on the reward passenger side bolt, which was rounded from the failed attempt a few days ago. I managed to get a 3/8 socket hammered onto it...after something like 300 hits. Due to the lack of space, I had to hit it with the side of the hammer and could only do a 1" to 2" swing. That was fun!!! <No, it reallywasn't...>

Once the socket was on, the bolt came out with a bit of effort using a 1/2 ratchet and the 3/8 swivel with and adapter (1/2 was too thick to fit). The forward also came out relatively easily (once the tension as removed) using a 3/8 ratchet and 10mm deep socket.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Did a search for the bolt size, found a bunch of conflicting info both here and on other sites. Most claimed they were either M10-1.25 or M10-1.5 with lengths claimed to be from 25mm thru 50mm. At least one of those was on a C1500 (not sure if it’s different), but quite a few were claiming 4wd as well.

For my '97 K1500 ExtCab Z71, they were M10-1.5 x 30 (class 10.9). Made a quick trip into town and found some Socket Head Cap Screws (class 12.9) in that size at Ace Hardware. Also picked up a cotter pin to replace the one missing from the passenger UCA box [$10.02].

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Time for lunch…

 

[mdnky]

03.28.2024 (cont…)

Started the afternoon off by giving the sway bar bushing mounts a quick wire brushing by hand, followed by a brake clean bath and a few coats of satin black enamel. The passenger side is a bit rough cosmetically, but more than stout enough to remain in service. The driver side looked almost new (before wire brushing), save fore a few minor spots on the edges underneath. This was probably due to it being covered in a thick greasy sludge for who knows how long.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

While those dried, I started attaching the loose sway bar to the new end-links. It took a bit of finagling, but I managed to get them on in the end. I started at the drivers side and used the jack to lift the LCA a bit. I was just able to get the nut started, if I left the top washer off. I did that and used the impact to squash everything down. I could then remove the nut, and was finally able to get the top washer on and tightened everything properly.

The passenger side was a bit more of a pain. I ended up doing the squash thing before putting it through the bar, which worked wonders. It now fit on the bar with just enough room to start the nut. Guess I forgot pictures...oops. ‍


I’m still waiting for the passenger CV boot to arrive, so I started getting more stuff back on the driver side. First up was the knuckle, followed by torquing everything I previously installed on Tuesday; except for the UCAs. I’ll do those once it’s on the ground. I also installed the hub assembly and the new axle nut, which had just been delivered by USPS. I swear I popped a blood vessel or two torquing the hub bolts and axle nut. There was some conflicting info between GM’s torque spec (178ft.lb.) and the part supplier specs (184ft.lb.) for the hubs, but I ended up going with 184ft.lb. They’re definitely not going anywhere and the cap screws worked perfectly, although the washers were a bit too big to fit through the access hole. Simple enough to slide in from the side though.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mdnky]

03.28.2024 (cont…cont...)

Looks like USPS isn't going to get the CV boot here today, and might not get it here tomorrow either. I am really regretting not spending the extra $4 for the FedEX shipping option right now...DOH!

Ended the day by installing the new sway bar bushings and mounts using the new cap screws. Took a bit of finagling, but they went in fairly easily once everything was lined up properly. The clearance between the LCA and the 3/8 ratchet + 8mm hex socket is paper thin, at best. Definitely not enough room to get a torque wrench in there, so they're now GutenTight.

You must be registered for see images attach

Also put the driver side tie rods together, doing my best to keep it somewhat close to the length of the old one. Hopefully that'll save the tires some unnecessary wear on the 10 mile trip to the alignment shop, once everything else is done. I'm going to hold off installing until I get the passenger's side suspension put on.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mdnky]

03.29.2024

So USPS delivered the CV boot around 3pm today. The install went surprisingly well, though I did have to take a break to and run into town. I hit up HoboFreight for some missing tools: a pair of snap ring pliers and end nippers. While there I also 'adopted' a clearance paint spray gun ($12 after the ‘coupin’), which might be handy for something soon.

You must be registered for see images attach

I started to tear down the old shaft by clipping the small band and very carefully cutting the large band with the grinder. I used a pair of diagonal cutters (they were nearby and already greasy) cut the boot off and ran into the a minor issue. The inboard c-clip is the type without holes, making me wish I had torn it down before running to the store. I was still able to use the snap ring pliers, plus a small flathead screwdriver, to coax the ring out of the groove. I slid it an inch or so down, allowing the tripod joint room to move giving access to the outboard retainer clip. I used the screwdriver to remove the retainer, then slid the tripod joint off. I spent a few minutes and used plenty of rags to clean all the old grease from the components. Everything looked to be in great shape, so time to reassemble.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Reassembly was relatively painless. The new small band went on first, followed by the new boot. I had to be a little careful when getting it over the c-clip to avoid tearing it. That was as simple as going slow and being gentle. After setting the smaller band using some end nippers, I put the tripod joint back on, followed by the retainers/clips. All that was left was to fill the boot with the grease, slide the end back on and secure it with the large band with the nippers.

You must be registered for see images attach

The Mevotech boot is definitely a bit thinner than the original, but still seems to be better quality than the Dorman ones I’ve seen in the past. I definitely think replacing the boot was a much better option (significantly cheaper), over sourcing a new shaft assembly. Especially considering those would most likely be made in China and definitely not to the same quality level as the original.

 

[mdnky]

03.29.2024 (cont…)

Have a few of these from the various RockAuto orders over past few years, but this is by far the best one yet.

You must be registered for see images attach

Time to get everything back together. I was running out of daylight, so I threw it on and didn’t stop to take pictures until the end. The passengers side now matches the drivers side. I also threw the tie rod ends on for both sides.

You must be registered for see images attach

I am missing two cotter pins on the passenger’s side (UCA balljoint & tie rod) that weren’t in the boxes. I don’t have any small enough on hand, so I’ll have to get them tomorrow. Once that's done I can get it back on the ground and finish torquing the UCAs. Then it's time to pull the bed (again) so I can work on the rear shock mounts, get the frame reinforcement welded in, and fix that rear cab mount. JOY!