97 Chevy Silverado k1500 keyless/remote start install?

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Chris253

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About to install a keyless entry/remote start/alarm system. Can anyone tell me what I need to do this? I've read things about bypass modules and relays but this is the first time I've looked into this and I'm a little confused about needing them or not. I know there's a lot of information on this but I can only find info on other years and still am a bit lost ugh. Anyways how do I do this? Thanks
 

Chris253

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Interesting. So I should buy the product and then figure it out? Instead of asking questions before I order? What if it doesn't include what I need? Order again and hopefully I get what I need? I guess these forums serve no real purpose if that is the case.. I'm hoping someone will help instead of making snide remarks. Thanks.
 

Eveready

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I wish I knew more about this. From what I have seen from reading here and other places. Some of the higher end trucks are set up for the auto locking and adding the parts to do so is a plug and play. Others are not so easy. I have no idea how to tell which is which. If you run a google search on " GMT400.com power locks" you might find some info buried on here. That would be a start.
 

jkeaton

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Interesting. So I should buy the product and then figure it out? Instead of asking questions before I order? What if it doesn't include what I need? Order again and hopefully I get what I need? I guess these forums serve no real purpose if that is the case.. I'm hoping someone will help instead of making snide remarks. Thanks.

You said “about to install” , not “about to purchase”. Big difference. It will come with instructions. Spoon feeding you with point by point installation information is quite useless if you dont even have it yet.
 
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Chris253

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Thanks, it turns out that they are reverse polarity locks that do require the relays for the door locks. There is no chip in the key but I'm still unsure about the bypass module. I guess in 97 and 98 something in the security changed? Thanks for the link, that should make wiring it easier.

Jkeaton, I hope we won't have a problem in the future. I'm not going to go into specific details about my current situation, so I'll let you determine what kind of person you would prefer to be based on the help that I'm seeking. Thanks.
 

df2x4

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In '98 GM introduced the PassLock anti-theft system, that's probably the discrepancy you're seeing.
 

jkeaton

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Jkeaton, I hope we won't have a problem in the future. I'm not going to go into specific details about my current situation, so I'll let you determine what kind of person you would prefer to be based on the help that I'm seeking. Thanks.

Just be thorough, clear and concise in your postings and life will be just fine for you here. Without details, stating the obvious is the only solution.
 

Ken K

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Chris253, I am reading the posts, but it appears you have purchased an aftermarket kit...Right? If you truck has power door locks it would have been easier to grab some bone yard parts to get OEM stuff from a 98-02 truck or van and have rolling codes, some programming capabilities with a system that opens the left door first and passengers side second using the key fob. Lock verification includes horn chirp or not, courtesy lights for 30 seconds until the key goes in and the ability to add a tailgate popper to open from the transmitter if you found parts of agmt400 utility. The OEM remote control receiver is on the drivers side behind the "B" or "C" pillar near the floor. The rest of the parts are factory fit, with part numbers including the key FOB transmitter which produces a different wireless code each time it's used. Once programmed, it works with the lights, horn and doors without the aftermarket remotes that use only one frequency. Thieves use a receiver to capture your signals frequency and use that to open the door. It happens a lot. Truck fall into a different group for emission, theft deterrent and engine (Plus others)

As df2X4 indicated, passlock systems came into the 98MY. So what can you do to keep your vehicle where you put it? An old trick used for years is to examine the cruise switch circuit. Why? Older 80's vintage used ground inputs for set/coast, but most use B+ for inputs. If equipped, the cruise on/off switch supplies B+ for inputs. Turn off, no power goes into the switch, but turn to "On", you can add a relay that controls the crank circuit or power to the distributor. The older type that used ground, you wire the same relay into the "Set/Coast" button. Now what? Well, you insert the key with the right hand, ready to turn, but the left hand pushes the "Set/Coast" button down that no allows cranking.

GMeSI only goes back to 98, so it show B+ at the cruise handle, I don't know what 97 uses. But what I am saying is this is an added layer of security without having passlock and two hall-effect switches to create a voltage drop (One of 10 combos) to the theft module. It only keeps the owner from driving away when it breaks. I prefer something simple.
 
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