sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
I find that a 2" diff Fr>Rr still has a bit of that stink-bug, kicked-in-the-booty, 'California Tilt' look.
My '97 had that with a 2/4 & it bothered the hell outa me. Just one of the many reasons why I'll never do another 2/4.
A couple of examples of 400's with a 3" diff Fr>Rr.
While they are lower than what you want to do, they do show how a 3" difference works as far as attaining a level stance.
This is a bud's that we just finished dropping 5/8.
Check how the top of the box is near parallel to the ground.
My '98 @ 4/6.
Now @ 4/7.
Black vehicles are so hard to get decent pix of.
The rear tires actually tuck up into the wheel wells just a bit. (diggity!) No more gap between the top of the tire & the bottom of the opening.
295/40/20 on 10". Lips are rolled but they didn't need to be. Did that before I got the tires & wheels & I just wanted to make sure.
The fronts are 255/45/20 on 8.5".
For the 3/6 you want, I'd use either BellTech or DJM for the rear.
BellTech has the pinion angle pre-determined & is set within their design.
DJM's has an adjustable P/angle built into their's.
The original drop on my '98 was done with a BellTech derivative & there was no issues with the driveline's geometry @ 6".
It was when it was lowered another inch that things started to get funky.
The DJM's adjustable P/angle is good to an 8" drop when using drop shackles + a flip kit.
I can see that adjustability as both good & bad.
Great for going lower than 6".
Not so if just doing 6". I think that that may be problematic with the possibility of the diff rotating within that adjustability, especially if there was ever some serious power being thrown at it.
The DJM rep told me that that is probably unlikely, but 'probably' isn't the same as 'won't'. I heard 1% of doubt.
For the front, BellTech spindles will widen the front track by about 3/4" per side. They have their reasons, but mostly it's just an old design. Damn near 35 years old. Something to keep in mind when ordering wheels. That extra 3/4" can be compensated for with wheel offset.
DJM does not widen the track.
For the springs...cut 'em! Cut the stockers. (Here come the haters!)
1 coil = 2" of drop. Soooo...cut 1/2 a coil.
Never cut more than a whole coil.
Cutting coils is as old as HotRodding. Cutting them increases the spring rate. Beneficial for a lowered vehicle with decreased suspension travel.
...and with only cutting 1/2 a coil, the increase in spring rate isn't going to be all that dramatic anyhow. It certainly won't be kidney-bustin' race-car harsh. It's not even that bad with a whole coil cut.
Aftermarket lowering springs are merely a short version of a stock spring with the equivalent spring rate. Mush too soft.
BellTech Street Performer shocks. After annihilating damn near every other brand of 'lowered' shock out there, the B/T's are head & shoulders above the rest. I can't say enough good about them.
Not just another short shock, but one that's actually been designed specifically for lowered vehicles. A bit firmer than OEM in normal driving. Then they ramp up nice in both compression & rebound when pushed
Best ones I've torture tested so far, short of spending $1200.00 for a set of double adjustable Vi-Kings or $1500.00 for some QA1's.
My '97 had that with a 2/4 & it bothered the hell outa me. Just one of the many reasons why I'll never do another 2/4.
You must be registered for see images attach
A couple of examples of 400's with a 3" diff Fr>Rr.
While they are lower than what you want to do, they do show how a 3" difference works as far as attaining a level stance.
This is a bud's that we just finished dropping 5/8.
Check how the top of the box is near parallel to the ground.
You must be registered for see images attach
My '98 @ 4/6.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now @ 4/7.
Black vehicles are so hard to get decent pix of.
You must be registered for see images attach
The rear tires actually tuck up into the wheel wells just a bit. (diggity!) No more gap between the top of the tire & the bottom of the opening.
295/40/20 on 10". Lips are rolled but they didn't need to be. Did that before I got the tires & wheels & I just wanted to make sure.
The fronts are 255/45/20 on 8.5".
You must be registered for see images attach
For the 3/6 you want, I'd use either BellTech or DJM for the rear.
BellTech has the pinion angle pre-determined & is set within their design.
DJM's has an adjustable P/angle built into their's.
The original drop on my '98 was done with a BellTech derivative & there was no issues with the driveline's geometry @ 6".
It was when it was lowered another inch that things started to get funky.
The DJM's adjustable P/angle is good to an 8" drop when using drop shackles + a flip kit.
I can see that adjustability as both good & bad.
Great for going lower than 6".
Not so if just doing 6". I think that that may be problematic with the possibility of the diff rotating within that adjustability, especially if there was ever some serious power being thrown at it.
The DJM rep told me that that is probably unlikely, but 'probably' isn't the same as 'won't'. I heard 1% of doubt.
For the front, BellTech spindles will widen the front track by about 3/4" per side. They have their reasons, but mostly it's just an old design. Damn near 35 years old. Something to keep in mind when ordering wheels. That extra 3/4" can be compensated for with wheel offset.
DJM does not widen the track.
For the springs...cut 'em! Cut the stockers. (Here come the haters!)
1 coil = 2" of drop. Soooo...cut 1/2 a coil.
Never cut more than a whole coil.
Cutting coils is as old as HotRodding. Cutting them increases the spring rate. Beneficial for a lowered vehicle with decreased suspension travel.
...and with only cutting 1/2 a coil, the increase in spring rate isn't going to be all that dramatic anyhow. It certainly won't be kidney-bustin' race-car harsh. It's not even that bad with a whole coil cut.
Aftermarket lowering springs are merely a short version of a stock spring with the equivalent spring rate. Mush too soft.
BellTech Street Performer shocks. After annihilating damn near every other brand of 'lowered' shock out there, the B/T's are head & shoulders above the rest. I can't say enough good about them.
Not just another short shock, but one that's actually been designed specifically for lowered vehicles. A bit firmer than OEM in normal driving. Then they ramp up nice in both compression & rebound when pushed
Best ones I've torture tested so far, short of spending $1200.00 for a set of double adjustable Vi-Kings or $1500.00 for some QA1's.