I'm going to have to think on this one. I've got the torx bit and torque wrench, but... Definitely going to study your videos. Maybe a powerglide?Hi Jim, I'm sure you'd be fine - refer to my 4L60E Video Series on Youtube for step by step procedures plus mods for performance to get a good idea of what' involved. Trans probably needs an overhaul and since it's out, I'd definitely go through it now vs dealing with it after the fact.
You'll need a few specialty tools, including:
- holding fixture (can be bench mounted or adapted for mounting to an engine stand like the one I use)
- Clutch spring compressor(s) - there's a few universal clutch spring compressor tools that will work on all of the return spring assemblies in the 700R4/4L60Es
- Sealing ring expander and sizer - these make the job efficient and reduce the risk of breaking a sealing ring however you can improvise by using a hose clamp w/ the pump cover/stator to size the sealing rings in place once you've got them in their respective grooves on the stator
- Bushing Driver set for all bushings - alternatively you can take the new bushings w/all the parts that take them to a local trans shop for r/r; expect to pay $125-150 or so
- Dial indicator and magnetic base for measuring front end play - keep it between .015-.025
- Feeler gauges for measuring clutch clearance in the forward, 3-4 and reverse input clutch - you can also use a dial indicator in combo with a piece of steel laid over the drum while you put the rev input drum and forward drum on the pump and force compressed air into the applicable feed circuits while you measure clutch pack travel from rest to fully applied (keep your 3-4 clearance between .030 and .050, forward clearance to .030-.050 and rev input clearance to between .050-.070
- Pump half alignment tool - you can use a giant hose clamp from Ace Hardware or Home Depot - then test it on the empty case once the pump is assembled and install the pump onto your torque converter to make sure the rotor turns freely
- Inch lb torque wrench (you prob already have this)
- Torx Plus 50 socket for your bell housing-case bolts - Use a 1/2 inch drive impact and 6" 1/2 drive extension with a 1/2-3/8 drive adaptor so you can more easily remove those bolts from the case; if they still won't come out, heat the case side of the threads with a small propane torch for a minute or so then try again and they will eventually come out
Have the pump resurfaced and pocket cut so that your rotor and slide to pump body deck surface clearance is .0015-.002 (pump rotor needs .001-.0015 and slide needs .001-.002).
Turn reverse input drum .010 undersize to restore band surface then obtain 1/8" longitudinal travel of the band when on the drum and servo assembly installed
Separator plate shift calibration adjustments: Drill the 1-2 feed .072-080, 2-3 feed, 3-4 feed and band release to .093 and low reverse to .080-093 depending upon how often you'll be manually shifting to and out of manual low (if never, leave the feed hole stock size)
There's a boat load of tips/tricks but for now, start watching my vids and post your follow up questions here so we can keep the info exchange going.
OR or you can swap in a Hydromatic
4L60E Information Thread
- Thread starter NickTransmissions
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Think outside the box - perhaps a Pratt and Whitney F119 afterburning, supercruising turbofan engine w/thrust vectoring. Make that 97 Tahoe just as fast as (if not faster than) an F22. You'll need a big brake kit though...
Or J58 for real go fast power.
You might want to clarify that 1992 was still 4l60, the 4l60E didn't show up until 1993. I've got a mystery built 4l60 in my 92 blazer with a new 383 ahead of it, it's been a mess with the shop not having the TV cable tight and the trans was 2 quarts underfilled. We'll see how long it lasts but when it does go I'm just having it built up instead of swapping something else in.
Ive personally have rebuilt 1992 4L60Es so no clarification needed; its not well known but the 4L60E was in production as of late 1992. Likewise the 700r4 aka 4L60 persisted until 93 with the F-Bodies and Corvette.
Sucks to hear about that; not sure why some shops cant bother to do **** right.
How much power is your 383 putting out?
Not sure, it's just a mild build with vortec heads and an edelbrock carb. The last owner had it rebuilt with at least a shift kit, but I'm not sure what else. The 1-2 shift is much firmer than I like.
As far as GMT400's go, the E didn't start until 93 from everything I've seen, not that they weren't out there in other things yet. Or have you come across them in 1992 MY trucks?
As far as GMT400's go, the E didn't start until 93 from everything I've seen, not that they weren't out there in other things yet. Or have you come across them in 1992 MY trucks?
Ive come across 4L60Es manufactured in 1992 probably for '93 MY trucks but my dates refer to the year when the transmission was manufactured not necessarily the vehicle's as model years often differ from calendar year of manufacture, especially when there's a major body style or chassis change and new model year vehicles are sold in Q4 of the preceding year.
You have a couple options for taming the 1-2 shift:
1) pull off the 1-2 accumulator housing and check the spring set up --- if the set up is not stock, install a stock spring and see if that helps. If the accumulator is already stock (very unlikely if shift kit was installed) go to step 2
Here's the 1-2 accumulator housing
You must be registered for see images attach
2) Remove the pump-aux valve body feed pipe and valve body and check to see if you have two check balls in their respective locations (there' no check ball in the bath tub-shaped location) - If you see two check balls, proceed to step 3 (if not, add a second 1/4" check ball, either steel or torlon)
Here's a late model valve body w/the 2 check ball locations indicated by the green assembly lube
You must be registered for see images attach
3) Remove the aux valve body and spacer plate and check the 1-2 feed orifice sizing - purchase Transgo's 700P separator plate and follow the instructions that come w/the plate for installing the small aluminum slugs then drill the 1-2 feed hole .080-.086 (my guess is that the 1-2 feed hole is hogged out to like .110 or something similar on your current plate).
Here's a late model spacer plate w/hole sizes and designations
You must be registered for see images attach
Excellent choice. An amazing jet engine designed to run in full afterburner at 100% duty cycle.
Doesn't get any better than that. (!)
You must be registered for see images attach
The SR-71 had (2) of these. And the way it defended itself was with high altitude + pure speed.
It's amazing what our best & brightest came up with using slide rulers & test-to-failure learning mode
in order to advance the state of the art...
Yep, for sure - was thinking he may want to turn his gmt400 into an SR71 (or perhaps go even faster with a couple scram jets, lol)
