1996 k1500 vortec shot engine

[Rexall]

Hello,
I have a 96' 5.7l vortec that's shot. I'm debating between a crate engine or, sounds silly...but I have nearly a complete engine from an old 72 Nova project.

350 4 bolt main, weind intake, roller rockers, pistons, crank, Camelback heads, Holley 750cfm carb, Mallory distributor.

I know there would be extensive rewiring removing the ecm so I'd figure a painless wiring kit.

Go back to carb? Or can I just use the block, keep the vortec heads and everything else from the stock engine.

New parts: upgraded spider system from mpfi. New dist. High output alt, new fuel pump, new tank, various sensors, it's a long list. Think the block is on the verge of seizing up from a head gasket issue. Just cranks and cranks.

Other option is the low mileage LS swap but, I'm not entirely sure on the total cost of that with the 411 pcm upgrade and whatever else.

If you have a good link to any of these please post.

Thanks!

 

[Trigger_guard]

Ok, several things to note here. 2-piece main blocks use a different flywheel/flexplate, I don't know if it will bolt up to a 4l60e/nv3500 as I've never done it.

Carb swap is very easy and requires nearly no wiring changes, unless it's an auto,. Then things get tricky.

The vortec top end will fit on a 1-piece block, however. 1piece uses a slightly different timing set. This may cause problems with the crank Exciter wheel. (once again I've never tried it). Also. (No offense) but at least one of your heads are junk. It's just the nature of cast iron.

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[89GMCJOHN]

As you mentioned the old school engine you have I can only speak for a carb conversion as I have done a few ....removing ECM as you say - extensive rewiring is NOT required.... keyed +12 to a small block HEI mechanical distributor or the one you have (pink wire from my harness) , I used a mechanical fuel pump pulling from a simple tank pickup I put in the tank (biggest pain) - that way no computers to deal with enabling the fuel pump OR buying an external regulator and plumbing it to knock down the EFI's fuel pump pressure down to 5-6 psi for a carb etc and your pretty much done ...... I have had simple non computer controlled 700rs - there you can buy a simple external torque converter lockup switch from Monster if you want to keep OD ..... not sure about your later transmission controllers action with a carb .

Which brings up a great question : maybe some of the more knowledgeable guys can pipe up here ...if you switch out to a carb setup what effects does that have on a later gen computer controlled transmissions ? Does it go to some sort of open loop - limp mode but still work - shift fine ?

Heres a guy who successfully did a carb swap with a 4L60e and what he did to make it work with pics https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/how-to-ditch-efi-and-still-control-your-4l60e.197014/

 

[Rexall]

Ok, several things to note here. 2-piece main blocks use a different flywheel/flexplate, I don't know if it will bolt up to a 4l60e/nv3500 as I've never done it.

Carb swap is very easy and requires nearly no wiring changes, unless it's an auto,. Then things get tricky.

The vortec top end will fit on a 1-piece block, however. 1piece uses a slightly different timing set. This may cause problems with the crank Exciter wheel. (once again I've never tried it). Also. (No offense) but at least one of your heads are junk. It's just the nature of cast iron.

No offense taken. I'm guessing your saying the camelbacks. They came of our 68 Camaro that got replaced with trick flows. Numbers match that car, they are just available to me from a 72 Nova build.

 

[Trigger_guard]

Actually no, I was talking about the factory vortec ones. They have a tendency to be one use only.

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[Rexall]

Actually no, I was talking about the factory vortec ones. They have a tendency to be one use only.

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Oh, I hadn't heard that, I was planning on having them rebuilt and milled if they had warped a little...plus slightly more compression. But thanks for that input.

 

[Trigger_guard]

Oh, I hadn't heard that, I was planning on having them rebuilt and milled if they had warped a little...plus slightly more compression. But thanks for that input.

It's always worth a shot to have them pressure tested. But don't get your hopes up

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[PlayingWithTBI]

And your camel hump heads are old school, they don't flow as well.

 

[Rexall]

Well, guess it's down to crate 5.7l or used LS swap.

Crate engine around 2500$

LS swap with a decently priced used low mileage engine and 411 pcm? Anyone done it and average price in total?

 

[Trigger_guard]

I avoid LS motors like the plague. (But that's just me) But I just bought a reman vortec long block from jegs for 1600$ shipped

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