Stock type for the lifters you have in there now and no cheap chineseium crap.Any recommendations?
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Stock type for the lifters you have in there now and no cheap chineseium crap.Any recommendations?
Roller;Stock type for the lifters you have in there now and no cheap chineseium crap.
Any recommendations?
I haven't forgotten all my lessons you've shared. I must admit there is a bit of excitement when you bring up new engine replacement..lolIf you can't get the glitter to go
away/stay away in Step #1, then I wouldn't spend any more time/money attempting Step #2 or #3. Period.)
So it seems like my last readjustment to 1 full turn past zero lash made some changes. I've only had 2 random, not always,taps at startup for many driving sessions since. Actually didn't have any at all for the first several trips and was excited but, it returned..booIf you can't find absolute perfection in terms of a stray tap on startup, then if you are
going to err, then please err on the side that gives you the smoothest idle. Simply put,
the more consistently that the valves are closing (and getting rid of the heat that will
burn them if not shed) the smoother the idle. So if 3/4 of a turn preload still gives you
a smooth idle, then let's stay at this setting. And again, if the engine stop lottery puts
the loosest lifter on top of it's cam lobe every so often and you end up with a few taps
on start up, I'm perfectly OK with that.
So it seems like my last readjustment to 1 full turn past zero lash made some changes. I've only had 2 taps at startup for many driving sessions since. Actually didn't have any at all for the first several trips and was excited but, it returned..boo
I noticed that my temp gauge climbs up a bit higher than before now. It'll creep up to 210 before 190 thermostat kicks in...
Is this the heat thing you speak of? Should I be concerned.
Just weird that before I ever attempted lash adjustments in the very beginning, I never had
1) tapping at startup
2) lower oil pressure at idle..
3) the rising heat....
4)glittery oil
maybe I goofed something on my initial cold adjustment in my first attempt way back when this all started and the idle was loping hard...idk...it was such a chaotic process the first time running around doing adjustments, who knows what the heck happened
I mean, looking over my notes in the thread, one rocker nut had to be loosened 1.5 turns to get past zero lash.... and that's after goofing around several attempts prior....and after several hundred miles of driving....
I do think maybe the tapping is related to air. Tempted to just go with the vertical oil filter adapter to rule out mine having a funky bypass but idk. The 4wd adapters are in rough shape out in the wild and new ones can't be found so the different style with a shorter filter would be the best option I guess....
Could leave well enough alone...Will see if the tapping stays at a couple.... just the heat rise I wanted to make sure was ok... Already know 3/4 turn past zero was giving me random minute long or more taps...
Silver lining that my O2 sensor is alive?lolIn English, the exhaust valve is exposed to superheated gasses whenever it's open. (Remember, our O2 sensors
don't wake up until ~600°F, and the old single wire jobs relied solely upon passing exhaust gases to hit these temps.)
Meanwhile, the exhaust seat is close to the same temps as the coolant, several hundred degrees cooler.
(See attached photo for the color of a typical exhaust valve on a modern engine.)
I actually logged in because I wanted to ramble so I didn't forget my recent thoughts about the beginning of this. So it wasn't planning to be a question as much as notes. But since you asked..What was your original motivation to attempt the valve preload adjustments? Was it rough running,
or was it a noisy valvetrain? Just trying to figure out if the metallic debris in the engine oil was starting
up prior to your intervention, or if it started afterwards?
Been salivating over the talks of a bypass filter... if nothing more than a hail mary to help for now..... Pretty pricey.....And IF the shorter filter were to fix the issue, then if I'm changing my oil on 5K intervals, I might change
the filter halfway through. (ie: Oil ever 5000 miles, but filter every 2500 miles) NOTE: This is only if I was
concerned about how much less dirt the shorter filter could bank as compared to a longer filter? In other
words, I think that a clean shorter filter is a viable option for your 4WD truck.
I had brought up in the lounge that there's a young guy who works at Autozone that has a 95 gmt...He let me look at at and he fired up the truck.I'm not up on my SBC factory aluminum valve covers anymore, but I wouldn't
be surprised that a set from a '92 Corvette that would fit your truck are out
there somewhere. (Just from the perspective of an slight audible difference
in sonic signature...but unless you found a pair in the Treasure Yard or a yard
sale for a song, I absolutely wouldn't go there.)