1990 ball joint spindle help

[ProFarm]

Replacing the both lower and upper ball joints on my 1990 454ss. I am reusing the stock spindle. What is the correct torque for the upper and lower castle nut. Also do i add any grease to the ball joint shafts where they pivot in the spindle? Thank you Merry Christmas.

 

[someotherguy]

There should be torque specs in the service manual, please don't go specifically off my very vague memory but it's probably around (EDIT - corrected, #'s from manual in post #6). You could also go based on torque by fastener size (stud size) charts found all across the web.

No grease on the studs. They don't move in the spindle once torqued down. All the movement happens inside the joint, which absolutely should be greased after installation. The grease it has out of the box is merely to prevent rust before installation.

Richard

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

The only reason to put any grease on the ball joint studs would be to keep them from rusting into the spindle ( shouldn't happen, but high humidity and driving through water can cause this). Anti seize compound will achieve the same results though. Don't remember which one I used on my Burb, replaced the UBJs in October 2018 when I replaced the calipers, pads and brake hoses. Went to south Louisiana shortly thereafter, and the next couple of weeks saw my life get very complicated. So I don't recall everything about that job! But I'm pretty sure I did put something on the studs, since I'd spent a good bit of time and effort into getting them apart!( Original joints, had been in the control arms and spindles for 19 years!)

 

[someotherguy]

I don't disagree totally with the idea of lubing them except it may interfere with properly tightening, as they may have a tendency to spin. If a service manual says do it, then I'll agree.. do it. But I've never done it. As far as getting the old ones out, I've never had a problem using the spring tension to help. Gentle (usually) tapping on the spindle with a small sledgehammer after loosening the nut just enough to make a gap has been enough to get 'em loose.

Richard

 

[ProFarm]

Thanks for the replys i have searched for the torque specs for the castle nuts but cat find anything specific…and i dont have a service manual.

 

[someotherguy]

Thanks for the replys i have searched for the torque specs for the castle nuts but cat find anything specific…and i dont have a service manual.

There's links for them online posted here somewhere in the forum, I'd link you to the post but I've never looked 'em up as I have paper manuals here.. which I just checked. I was a little surprised, but it has been several years since I installed ball joints on a GMT400. According to 1994 factory manual, all C/K (with exception of the straight axled 3500HD of course) are 74 lb-ft upper ball joint nut to knuckle, 94 lb-ft lower ball joint nut to knuckle. A bit more than I expected it would be, must be required to get that taper to seat fully.

Richard

 

[ProFarm]

Awesome Thank you. I will look for the link.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There's links for them online posted here somewhere in the forum, I'd link you to the post but I've never looked 'em up as I have paper manuals here.

Just an FYI...

88-98 Service Manuals

Over the years I have collected a bunch of GM service literature. Links to PDF Scans of service and STG manuals and a links to the Parts manuals. You'll need the FREE Adobe Acrobat reader to open these files. Get it directly from Adobe here {http://get.adobe.com/reader/} If you're not...

www.gmt400.com

 

[Schurkey]

1. DO NOT LUBE THE BALL JOINT STUD TAPERS where they go into the steering knuckle. The whole point of that taper is that it "stretches" the tapered hole in the steering knuckle for a TIGHT fit. If you lube the stud, you'll allow the stud to slide too far into the tapered hole, stretching it too far. The ball joint stud is not your peniis. Put the stud in the hole CLEAN AND DRY. Don't lube the stud threads, either.

2. The torque values for the ball joint stud nuts given in the service manual are MINIMUMS. When you get the ball joint stud poked into the steering knuckle holes, and the cotter-pin holes aligned in the direction you want 'em, (I go straight forward/backward so it's easy to get the cotter pin in...and back out later) you torque the nut to whatever the spec is. IF (big IF) you can get the cotter pin through the castellations in the nut and through the hole in the stud...great. Put the pin in and spread it. If the castellations and the hole don't line up, TIGHTEN the nut UP TO 1/6 TURN, but only far enough to get the alignment needed to shove the pin in.

3. DO NOT LOOSEN the nut in order to poke the cotter pin in place. If you somehow screw up, you have to pop the stud free and start over. Loosening the nut without popping the stud free can result in a broken stud or wobbled-out steering knuckle hole.

 

[someotherguy]

3. DO NOT LOOSEN the nut in order to poke the cotter pin in place. If you somehow screw up, you have to pop the stud free and start over. Loosening the nut without popping the stud free can result in a broken stud or wobbled-out steering knuckle hole.

The hell you say.

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(pretty sure that's how this happened on my '96 C3500 wrecker forever ago...not by me, but by previous owner...and yeah it's a tie rod but same scenario)

Richard