‘95 K1500 transfer case SEEMINGLY not working?

[any4xx]

In my effort to resurrect my new to me ‘95 Sierra I put it in the air today and changed the engine oil & filter. While all wheels were in the air I decided to start it and run it through the 4WD choices. I was surprised when the front wheels didn’t turn at all in either 4 High or 4 Low.

I was under the impression that the floor selector on these ‘95 trucks directly engaged the transfer case. No? No weird noises nor anything odd other than no front wheels turning.

What am I missing here?

 

[Rock Hard Concrete]

Axle disconnect probally not working. Does the front driveshaft spin?

 

[any4xx]

Just to clarify… the front wheels turned freely just like I was in a 2WD truck. They just didn’t turn under power with the rear wheels.

 

[any4xx]

Axle disconnect probally not working. Does the front driveshaft spin?

Shoot… I didn’t even look at the driveshaft. And I hate to admit to my ignorance but I’m not aware of what the front axle disconnect even is. Guessing something electrical?

 

[Rock Hard Concrete]

Shoot… I didn’t even look at the driveshaft. And I hate to admit to my ignorance but I’m not aware of what the front axle disconnect even is. Guessing something electrical?

It's a collar on the passenger side (I think its the passenger side) of the front axle that disconnects when not in 4wd to allow the front wheels to free spin. It's an MPG/Wear thing. Similar to unlocking old fashioned hubs. If the t-case works but 4wd does not, then that is the problem 99% of the time. Depending on the year, the stock disconnect is thermal activated and are known to go bad often. There is a retrofit for the newer electric style of actuator, as well as a manual activator which also allows for 2wd low range which can be very handy.

 

[any4xx]

It's a collar on the passenger side (I think its the passenger side) of the front axle that disconnects when not in 4wd to allow the front wheels to free spin. It's an MPG/Wear thing. Similar to unlocking old fashioned hubs. If the t-case works but 4wd does not, then that is the problem 99% of the time. Depending on the year, the stock disconnect is thermal activated and are known to go bad often. There is a retrofit for the newer electric style of actuator, as well as a manual activator which also allows for 2wd low range which can be very handy.

Thank you. I’ll put it back in the air tomorrow and check it out.

Love this forum!

 

[Supercharged111]

It's a collar on the passenger side (I think its the passenger side) of the front axle that disconnects when not in 4wd to allow the front wheels to free spin. It's an MPG/Wear thing. Similar to unlocking old fashioned hubs. If the t-case works but 4wd does not, then that is the problem 99% of the time. Depending on the year, the stock disconnect is thermal activated and are known to go bad often. There is a retrofit for the newer electric style of actuator, as well as a manual activator which also allows for 2wd low range which can be very handy.

95 had the crappy thermal actuator that fails when you need it most: when it's cold and butthole deep snow. Mid-97 was the year they changed I do believe. My dually is early 97 and still has the thermal actuator.

 

[any4xx]

I did a bit of snooping online and see there are cable-operated actuators available. Any thoughts on best brand or where to buy?

 

[Schurkey]

I did a bit of snooping online and see there are cable-operated actuators available. Any thoughts on best brand or where to buy?

Yeah...don't.

The single advantage of the cable-operated (manual) jobs is that you can have low-range in 2WD for easy steering. Yay.

For every other operation, the non-thermal actuator is the way to go. The thermal kind get slow as the temp drops, and as they age, they get slower and slower until they just don't work at all any more. Seems like they tend to fail in cold weather, too.

My '97 has the non-thermal actuator. Works wonderfully.
My '88 has the thermal unit. Works adequately, but I've installed two of 'em in the ~140K miles I've put on the truck (total of 320K more-or-less) IF I had known about the non-thermal upgrade when the first thermal unit died, I'd have installed it then. I got a "lifetime warranty" thermal unit from NAPA, and used that warranty once already, so it doesn't make sense to swap now.

Thermal actuators:

You must be registered for see images attach

One electrical connector, screws right out of it's housing with a bigass adjustable wrench (or the correct-sized combination wrench.)

You must be registered for see images attach

They should have covered this thing in pinky-purple plastic. This is what the failed actuators DON'T do, and Vi_agra doesn't help. (Really? "V_iagra" is censored?)

You must be registered for see images attach

Pop the electrical connector, unscrew the actuator. Plug the connector back in. Turn the ignition on, put the transfer case in 4WD. If the thing doesn't extend in ~30 seconds, or doesn't extend at least an inch and the electrical wiring, fuses, etc. are OK...the actuator is done.

The non-thermal style requires an updated wire harness kit, and that includes a spacer that goes into the actuator housing before you screw the actuator itself in. GM used to sell the kit, but of course they've discontinued it. Now it's available through Dorman and other aftermarket companies. You'll also need the non-thermal actuator itself.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001C6Q7Q2/?coliid=I3PBSUZLPVAG5&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[GoToGuy]

My 93 is thermal, my 95 is electric. You can get cable conversion, a fixed plug ( fulltime 4X ), or electric conversion for thermal.