Not sure if this goes here but..

Well, there's a couple things.
1) about how much would it run me to do a limited slip swap on a 91 1500 4x4 (Assuming it's just the carrier I change)
2) when I went to put the front driveshaft back up, the joint seemed too small on the yolk. What size is the front I joint?
Thanks

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

To further this, i have a 94 z71. Does it have limited slip? Are the ratios different?

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

Cost depends completely on what you're willing to pay. Personally I'd go with an Eaton TrueTrac for a limited slip, or an Eaton Detroit Locker if you want a real locker. Either one of those is going to run you $6-700 or so in parts with the necessary install kit (bearings, races, shims, etc.). Factor in another $300 or so for labor if you have someone else install it, which I strongly recommend if you're not familiar with the process.

As far as what rear end you have now, check the RPO codes on the sticker in the glove box. Being a half ton, it will have the 8.5" 10-bolt. G80 is the code for the factory locker. GU4 is 3.08s, GU5 is 3.23s, GU6 is 3.42s, GT4 is 3.73s, GT5 is 4.10s.

lunchbox lockers are easy to install and dont require pulling the carrier out. I had one in my old zr2 blazer and liked it but it does take some getting used to.

as far as I know, all u-joints for the rear drive shaft and front shaft are all the same.

Locker+snow/ice=bad day. Would it be better to do a front diff swap or ring gear/pinion?

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

azblacksheep said:

Locker+snow/ice=bad day.

Click to expand...

I feel like I've argued this a million times on here, but this is really dependent on the driver and the abilities of said driver. I actually prefer a locker in the snow 90% of the time.

azblacksheep said:

Would it be better to do a front diff swap or ring gear/pinion?

Click to expand...

Not sure what you're getting at here... Leave the front carrier alone unless you plan on installing a locker that can be disabled, air locker or E-locker. If the front is locked at all times your steering will be absolute garbage.

As far as the ring and pinion, if you change it in one diff you HAVE to do both. They have to match, front and rear.

u joint should be an 1310x or 3r if you want good ones, dont know the moog or any other numbers since i dont run the crappy quality parts store ones

df2x4 said:

I feel like I've argued this a million times on here, but this is really dependent on the driver and the abilities of said driver. I actually prefer a locker in the snow 90% of the time.



Not sure what you're getting at here... Leave the front carrier alone unless you plan on installing a locker that can be disabled, air locker or E-locker. If the front is locked at all times your steering will be absolute garbage.

As far as the ring and pinion, if you change it in one diff you HAVE to do both. They have to match, front and rear.

Click to expand...

Disregard the front ring gear question. It's irrelevant since both diffs on both trucks are the same gears. As far as a lunch box locker, I 've drove around with lockers in on slick surfaces before and it's just not something I like. I went from locked to limited slip and was much happier overall. It's a personal preference overall.

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

TylerZ281500 said:

u joint should be an 1310x or 3r if you want good ones, dont know the moog or any other numbers since i dont run the crappy quality parts store ones

Click to expand...

They're all the same u joint? What's the outside diameter of the caps?

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.