99 suburban k1500 6 lug drums

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alvaroemg

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I'd be far more worried about the drilled/slotted aspect of the rotors than the weight difference.

I looked-up your NAPA calipers, I don't see the piston diameter listed.
Hmm .. I still have not installed them. Any specific reason why I should know the diameter prior to installation?

What should I look for on them?

I was looking at the AC Delcos on Amazon for about $45/ea. As well as the Power Stop red calipers for about $120 for the pair but decided on the NAPAs..

thanks
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Hmm .. I still have not installed them. Any specific reason why I should know the diameter prior to installation?

What should I look for on them?

The 3" piston calipers were "low-drag" calipers used on at least the JB5/JB6 brakes and were provisioned with a "quick-take-up" MC.

The larger piston calipers were not "low-drag" calipers, were used on at least the JB7/JB8 brakes, and were provisioned with a conventional (not "quick-take-up") MC.

Mis-matching the calipers ("low-drag" or not) with MCs ("quick-take-up" or not) can produce poor results, e.g., see www.gmt400.com/threads/gm-low-drag-calipers-a-discussion-on-jalopyjournal-com.60055

Three different calipers are illustrated here:



Back on the topic of "low-drag" calipers, see the .pdf file from Bendix (Bendix of "Bendix brakes" fame) attached in this post:

 
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alvaroemg

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My MC is Raybestos MC390259.

I will take pictures of the calipers tomorrow and measure the piston.

Geez, all these brake system components is more complicated than what I had ever imagined
 

df2x4

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EBC
BTW, this price is for 2.

I ran some expensive EBC GD series dimpled/slotted rotors on my Suburban for a while... They were fine out of the box and worked great initially but unfortunately were warped beyond repair in a few months. Not sure why that happened, but I won't be trying them again.

Also regarding drilled/slotted rotors, I'm with the other guys. Completely unnecessary. If anything it actually seems like my Suburban stops better after I went back to a blank face rotor. The more surface area of the rotor that you have in contact with the pad at any given time, the more stopping power is available. Drilled/slotted rotors actually reduce that surface area. FWIU, drilled/slotted is more for cooling purposes, which isn't really necessary unless you're doing panic stops back to back. I suspect that the dimpled/slotted nature of the EBCs may be why they warped so badly, but I'm not sure.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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What trucks have those?
1500 pickups. One of several reasons I wanted a 2500/3500, and was primarily looking at them when truck shopping. Also some of the Tahoes and Yukons have the small brakes. Seems like the 4x4 ones got the better brakes, from my wrecking yard observation.
OBS/400 series 1500 Burbs got the 11 5/32" brakes, similar to the Big 10/ Heavy Half pickups in the square body trucks.
 

Caman96

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I suspect that the dimpled/slotted nature of the EBCs may be why they warped so badly
That’s what I’m thinking. I’ve got over 20k on my smooth faced EBC’s and they’re still very smooth when stopping.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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My MC is Raybestos MC390259.

That p/n matches with a “quick take up” MC. Let’s see a picture of what you received, then we’ll know for certain.

Assuming that’s the case, you’ll want to pair it with 3” calipers, which are the “low-drag” design.

Many here have swapped those components for the JB7 conventional MC and 80mm calipers (e.g., Centric FRC4413 et al). If your parts can be returned/ exchanged, that option is open to you. If I was you, I would do.
 
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Coveman

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Just for fun I’ll drop the NBS brake upgrade as food for thought. My 99 burb smoked those front rotors regularly (in fact, those rotors are smaller than a mazda 3 of the same year). I did the NBS brake / knuckle upgrade around 100k when the front end was ready for some love and the results were impressive. I dont think I’ve warped the NBS rotors since and have about 100k on them. Hydroboost aside, that might be the biggest bolt-on bang for your buck
 
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