Hooked up battery backwards

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89chevy4scrap

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I have a 1989 k1500 that I’ve been working on for a while. Recently I made a real big F-up. I have both fenders off so I’ve been setting the battery on the wheel to hook it up. The other day I was taking it on and off repeatedly and I ended up making the mistake of hooking off the battery up backwards. It was hooked up for maybe 3 seconds and I watched one of my fusable links going from the junction box to the eco go up in smoke. I’ve spliced that wire back together and checked all my fuses. The truck turns over but has no spark or power to the injectors. I’m just wondering what you guys would think or if my ecm is fried. I’m going to pull it tonight and see how if it smells like campfire
 

Road Trip

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Check ALL the fuses. Keep track of (as in written notes) which of the
fuses were blown. After replacing those fuses, these are the circuits
that should receive the closest scrutiny. (ie: verifying at the end of those
circuits that power has been restored.)

By the way, here are a few electrical troubleshooting tips to keep in
the back of your mind:

1) After replacing any blown fuses, if you have any that immediately blow
a second time that's a pretty solid sign that something was toasted by
the reversed power application. In English, recheck those blown fuse
locations after replacement for additional hints.

2) A blown fuse doesn't necessarily mean that the device behind it was protected
from damage. It's a sad but true statement that in the land of microseconds
some electronics can be toasted before the fuse finally blows open.
(ie: device failed shorted across the internal power supply.)

3) Same thing for an unblown fuse, especially with electronics on the far side.
That is, an unblown fuse is not a guarantee that everything behind it survived
the surge. (ie: device failed open across the internal power supply.)

****

The point I'm trying to make is that troubleshooting an electrical system after
this kind of mishap is not impossible, but you can do yourself a big favor by
collecting as much info during the troubleshooting as possible, and using it
to help you decide how to prioritize the recovery process.

Best of luck. Let us know what you uncover.
 
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89chevy4scrap

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Thanks for the reply I will definitely keep all of that in mind when troubleshooting. I’m fairly new to all of this especially when it comes to electrical so any tips you can give me when it comes to troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated. I just wanted to note that when I checked my fuse box I had no blown fuses and after replacing the fusible link that had blown and testing each side of the fuse with a test light, everything going to my fuse box has power. Im just wondering #1 if theres any fuses hidden elsewhere along the wiring harness that I should be looking for. And #2 if there’s a simple way for me to test my ecu other than smelling it.
 

GoToGuy

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I'm trying to wrap my brain around this....didn't you get a lightning bolt when you made contact?
Was the key in on/ run position?
I would dive into service manual, for total failure or accidental reversed power application. Some sort. I can visualize a fried ignition module, alternator, alternator fusible link. Good luck.
 

Road Trip

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I'm trying to wrap my brain around this....didn't you get a lightning bolt when you made contact?
Was the key in on/ run position?
I would dive into service manual, for total failure or accidental reversed power application. Some sort. I can visualize a fried ignition module, alternator, alternator fusible link. Good luck.

GTG, I just pulled this Caution out of the '89 Service, Driveability, & Emissions manual:

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If the key was on when the battery was connected backwards odds are the computer is smoked.
Even if the key was OFF, there is still 'Hot At All Times' power on a separate pin that's used to to keep
the contents of long-term fuel trim data and error codes stored in the computer's volatile memory intact.

In other words, reversing the power is going to be visited upon the computer internals, through 1 or more
power pins. Now to find out if the '89 ECM is diode protected in it's internal power supply to help protect it
against this type of human error during maintenance. :-(


Thanks for the reply I will definitely keep all of that in mind when troubleshooting. I’m fairly new to all of this especially when it comes to electrical so any tips you can give me when it comes to troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated. I just wanted to note that when I checked my fuse box I had no blown fuses and after replacing the fusible link that had blown and testing each side of the fuse with a test light, everything going to my fuse box has power. Im just wondering #1 if theres any fuses hidden elsewhere along the wiring harness that I should be looking for. And #2 if there’s a simple way for me to test my ecu other than smelling it.

No problem. Everyone in here wants to help others keep their GMT400 on the road as a
reliable traveling companion. But in order for us to help you remotely, we are literally all going
to have to be on the same page in the relevant FSM.

I've attached a couple of screen snaps showing that Section 3 of the '89 Service, Driveability,
& Emissions Manual is where we need to be in order to follow the factory troubleshooting flowcharts.
Thanks to the contributions of fellow members in this forum, you have the ability to download these
Factory Service Manuals for free. If you haven't done so already, please take advantage of this
opportunity to give yourself the best documentation available: ('88+ GMT400 FSM download links)

So, we need to regain the ability to start the truck asap. A quick common sense check to
see if your computer is still with us is to turn the key to the ON position & see if the SES
light comes on steady. (It's supposed to, allows a bulb check for you/mechanic/inspection station.)

If the light comes on, then I would proceed to shorting Pin A to Pin B on the ALDL, and see
if the computer is healthy enough to flash error codes via the SES light. (At a mininum, 3
flashing 12 codes saying all power-up diags passed.) If there are error codes, then of course
we start off by fixing the obvious.

And if the SES light doesn't come on, then we need to verify all the power to the computer.
(Following FSM guidance & wiring diagrams.) And since you mentioned your trouble light, I know
that base is covered. But if you don't already have a trustworthy multimeter then you
need to add this to your tool kit. Some stuff will be +12V, others will be regulated +5v
for use by the sensors, etc.

More to follow. Obviously if you take this to a shop (assuming that they would even take it on)
then the price to troubleshoot all this would be a nontrivial amount of money. But if you
are up to learning all this, then get those manuals downloaded and between the all of us we
should be able to start with the recovery process.

Hope this helps. Been there, toasted that, so I have empathy for the predicament that you
find yourself in.

Best of luck! Let us know what you discover & we will go from there.
 

Attachments

  • '89  Computer Command Control, Section 3 -- 1989_GM_Light_Truck_CK_10-30_Service_Driveability_...jpg
    '89 Computer Command Control, Section 3 -- 1989_GM_Light_Truck_CK_10-30_Service_Driveability_...jpg
    225.6 KB · Views: 17
  • '89 _System Check flowchart_ - starting point leading to all other troubleshooting flows -- 19...jpg
    '89 _System Check flowchart_ - starting point leading to all other troubleshooting flows -- 19...jpg
    184.5 KB · Views: 17
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Hipster

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Just going to throw this out there, have seen the inexperienced do this and fry the ecm before the fuses/fuse links burn.(not chevy's only) Bassackwards voltage spikes don't do the ecm or other parts on the electrical system such as ICM, alternator diodes etc. any good. I would be inclined to hook up a scanner and check ecm function, communication, etc.
 
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AK49BWL

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Another thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is most control modules have a moderately sized electrolytic capacitor on the battery input lines to help filter the input voltage a bit, and those don't like to be reverse-polarized... They tend to explode. Especially given their age at this point... Hopefully not the case here but just throwing it out there.
 

89chevy4scrap

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I'm trying to wrap my brain around this....didn't you get a lightning bolt when you made contact?
Was the key in on/ run position?
I would dive into service manual, for total failure or accidental reversed power application. Some sort. I can visualize a fried ignition module, alternator, alternator fusible link. Good luck.
Because I had been taking the battery on and off repeatedly the terminals going to the posts were loose enough to just drop right on, didn’t clue in to what I had done until I saw the smoke from the fusable link. The key was in the off position. I’ll do my best to check everything you mentioned.
 

Caman96

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Just posted this in another thread and obviously doesn’t help you now. But, going forward, I couldn’t recommend this any more. One of the best mods I’ve done for many reasons.
Battery Disconnect
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Having this while diagnosing your current situation would be helpful.
 
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