That's not a 'rule of thumb'. That's dyno time and work.
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Agree, a converter will make it or break it, If performance matters, you have to get on the phone and have one built. I wouldn't think @2500 stall it would be cooking it, you say a little hot...........stall is only one part, everything matters. tcs just built me a 2500 stall for my blown vortec, takes off pretty normal, little more rpm, smoother, lights tires easier, trans runs hotter around town and off road, add a cooler with fan on top of the two it may have, I run 3 and still get hot pulling sand hills wot lol. I'm running a bigger body billet single disk converter. I lock it up a little earlier in trans tune to keep mileage up hahaha, has plenty of torque, anyways talk to a couple guys a tcs in lake havasu they will steering you in the right direction, if you have the relevant information. Ill put it in for you and tune it. Torque converters are amazing tech choose wisely.
That's overly generic and overly simplified, It's layman's terms, should have a yellow cover on it and be titled "Torque converters for Dummies" Just some brief descriptions on some basic theory/principles.This is how Hays figures it… https://documents.holley.com/199r11353.pdf
^^this.....and I'll just say in a performance application 700/4l60 wouldn't be my choice.... nasty 1-2 spread. You got the better choice in your Buick. Bar-none.The good custom converter builders have you fill out a form with data about your vehicle. Weight, usage, gearing, cam specs, compression, head flow, etc. they also like to see dyno info if possible.
The good lockup converters are expensive but worth it. The factory converters aren’t designed to handle much power on lockup. I used to run a toggle switch on my 700R4 so I could override the lockup and keep it off while I was beating on the truck. The converter in my drag car has a triple disk lockup rated to handle 1000 Hp on lockup but that’s not typical with the mid range $600 converters.
Lastly the lockups are great for a street strip combo but for serious racing the non lock ups are more popular as they are lighter and more reliable on the big power cars and trucks. Some internal changes are required to modify the 4L60E and 80E for a non lockup converter, FYI.
Very good description. After well over 35 years of drag racing, I couldn’t have said it better without writing a novel. The science of torque converters can be complex and I suggest that if a person finds a company that can build one to your satisfaction, stick with them.The good custom converter builders have you fill out a form with data about your vehicle. Weight, usage, gearing, cam specs, compression, head flow, etc. they also like to see dyno info if possible.
The good lockup converters are expensive but worth it. The factory converters aren’t designed to handle much power on lockup. I used to run a toggle switch on my 700R4 so I could override the lockup and keep it off while I was beating on the truck. The converter in my drag car has a triple disk lockup rated to handle 1000 Hp on lockup but that’s not typical with the mid range $600 converters.
Lastly the lockups are great for a street strip combo but for serious racing the non lock ups are more popular as they are lighter and more reliable on the big power cars and trucks. Some internal changes are required to modify the 4L60E and 80E for a non lockup converter, FYI.
A few more pieces of info that can help others.Very good description. After well over 35 years of drag racing, I couldn’t have said it better without writing a novel. The science of torque converters can be complex and I suggest that if a person finds a company that can build one to your satisfaction, stick with them.
Yes it’s a billet 2004R, different ratios, lighter and it’s been working for me.^^this.....and I'll just say in a performance application 700/4l60 wouldn't be my choice.... nasty 1-2 spread. You got the better choice in your Buick. Bar-none.