Dude, if you're 18 and doing all this yourself, my hat is off to you
And @NickTransmissions, you must be quite a guy to spend the time, and provide the advice, that you do
4l60e swap
- Thread starter Cherryred98
- Start date
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Dude, if you're 18 and doing all this yourself, my hat is off to you
And @NickTransmissions, you must be quite a guy to spend the time, and provide the advice, that you do
3.73 is too tall for your 35s when in overdrive - upgrade to 4.56 or 4.88 as previously mentioned...Otherwise, you'll be going through transmissions more often than you'd prefer.
You haven't bought any parts yet, have you?
If not, don't spend any money on parts until you know 100% that you will be taking on the work. Most DYI'ers end up purchasing incorrect parts or 'outdated' parts because they don't know newer, redesigned equivalents are available and better for the rebuilt. Plus shops have different pricing than the general public so you'll likely end up spending more on your rebuild vs letting the shop just buy the parts.
Additionally, many (if not most) shops frown upon customers buying all the stuff needed for overhaul for the reasons stated above as well as for warranty considerations. I have a list of approved suppliers that I use (suppliers that I approve as sources for parts) as i know they will warranty anything I buy in the event it fails and I have to replace it as part of guarantee work. Many won't even consider doing the job if you show up with your trans and a big box of parts.
So be sure to call around and confirm with whichever shop you plan on using for the build if they will be ok with you providing all or most of the parts with them sourcing anything else as needed.
Cherryred98
Newbie
I haven’t bought any parts yet, I 1 still am waiting to be paid and 2 am waiting for the transmission shop to call me back.
I did some research on the forum and seems like everyone is saying the 4.56’s are the way to go for my set up.
I’ve serviced rear difs before ( as in pulling out the axles and changing the seals) so I kinda have an idea of what I’m doing, but is this something I should take to a shop? I know I asked the same thing on the transmission. I’m not scared to do the work I just don’t know exactly what I’m doing and I know I’m going to need some special tools. Also, I believe I have a 9.5 14 bolt in the rear and a 9.25 in the front right? What brand ring and pinion should I get, like what the best bang for my buck. And should I get a locker? I mean I’m happy with the g80 or whatever is in it and I really don’t want to spend about a grand per axle plus install if I have a shop do it. I know everyone is going to cringe at this but I found a kit on eBay that uses koyo bearings (I know their inferior to timken but their still name brand as far as I know). https://www.ebay.com/itm/2324660692...b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
I don’t think it should be too bad to do it myself, just mainly have to check tolerances right?
And as for the transmission I’ve been watching a bunch of videos on it and it seems like the main specialty tool I need is a specific press thing
I did some research on the forum and seems like everyone is saying the 4.56’s are the way to go for my set up.
I’ve serviced rear difs before ( as in pulling out the axles and changing the seals) so I kinda have an idea of what I’m doing, but is this something I should take to a shop? I know I asked the same thing on the transmission. I’m not scared to do the work I just don’t know exactly what I’m doing and I know I’m going to need some special tools. Also, I believe I have a 9.5 14 bolt in the rear and a 9.25 in the front right? What brand ring and pinion should I get, like what the best bang for my buck. And should I get a locker? I mean I’m happy with the g80 or whatever is in it and I really don’t want to spend about a grand per axle plus install if I have a shop do it. I know everyone is going to cringe at this but I found a kit on eBay that uses koyo bearings (I know their inferior to timken but their still name brand as far as I know). https://www.ebay.com/itm/2324660692...b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
I don’t think it should be too bad to do it myself, just mainly have to check tolerances right?
And as for the transmission I’ve been watching a bunch of videos on it and it seems like the main specialty tool I need is a specific press thing
You have all the video-based information you need via my 4L60E playlist but I cant speak to the rear end other than Ive done a bunch and the two most important measurables you need to nail are pinion depth and backlash. If you get both right, you'll see it in the pattern check and feel it when you spin the yoke - the gears will mesh perfect and feel buttery smooth...Also use a pinion spacer and shims in lieu of that stupid crush sleeve.
Whether or not you take on the work will depend on your risk appetite as special tools and equipment costs are roughly equivalent to labor costs if you outsource the work to shops.
Cherryred98
Newbie
Another question is why can’t I just hook up a transmission controller to the transmission I have in the truck right now? I know it’s uncharted waters but it should work right?
A request: Quote my post or mention me if you want me to respond. Otherwise, chances are that I'm not going to see any of your replies to the thread. My notifications are turned off so that I'm not getting notified whenever folks respond but aren't asking anything of me or where the responses don't require or involve my input. Thanks.
As to your question-do whatever you'd like, it's ultimately your vehicle. Whichever direction makes the most sense or comes with the least amount of work/risk but still gets the job done is fine.
Cherryred98
Newbie
The trans came today!! I opened the crate and their was a little fluid floating around in the bottom of the crate that leaked out while shipping, that puts me under the impression that they tested it before sending it off, I’m pretty sure it came out of the dipstick hole. I hear the biggest thing is them saying they test their transmissions and actually don’t, so they either tested it or it’s fluid that leaked out that they used when they assembled it. I’ve done some reading on the forum about monster and they’re really hit or miss, so we will see in a couple days after I get it in. I am thinking to also drop the pan before installing it just to make sure they didn’t send me a core or something stooopid like that
Cherryred98
Newbie
Update: monster really is hit or miss, I hooked everything up, and added some fluid and she runs really good. Shifts good and everything. Was missing 1 singular pan bolt though. Not that big of a deal I just pulled one from my other trans. It did come with a dyno test certificate card thing which showed they really did test it, along with the pan being half full of fluid quality seemed ok for a rebuilt core, they left the Gm sticker on the top with the bar code and just painted over it, and the threads in the holes for the linkage bracket were filled with paint so I ran a tap through them to clean them out.
Question: Is the bars that come from the block to the trans that bolt to the bottom of the bell housing really necessary? I didn’t hook them up as I forgot to allign them in the bell housing holes when I put the trans in.
Extra info: I used the t case from the 94 and the trans to tcase adapter from the original 98 trans and it worked out good.
REMINDER: PUT THE EXHAUST UP BEFORE PUTTING IN THE TRANS CROSSMEMBER… it makes life a lot easier, along with taking the exhaust crossover pipes all the way out before installing the new trans ( probably some rookie mistakes on my end)
Question: Is the bars that come from the block to the trans that bolt to the bottom of the bell housing really necessary? I didn’t hook them up as I forgot to allign them in the bell housing holes when I put the trans in.
Extra info: I used the t case from the 94 and the trans to tcase adapter from the original 98 trans and it worked out good.
REMINDER: PUT THE EXHAUST UP BEFORE PUTTING IN THE TRANS CROSSMEMBER… it makes life a lot easier, along with taking the exhaust crossover pipes all the way out before installing the new trans ( probably some rookie mistakes on my end)
Earlier trucks didn't have them, but if I were racing, towing, rockcrawling, or had a Suburban, I'd want them.
Schurkey advised against leaving them off. I don't remember where but it stood out to me.. Makes sense that they serve an important purpose.
I'd like to forget them sometimes too...lol
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