Should I be worried about timing or anything being off, since i had cranked it a little bit with it only running on one cylinder? Or will i be good to go once the new (quality) cap is in?
So I recently found out about a trick where you unplug plug wire 3 and if it starts right up, you got a bad distributor cap. Well guess what IT STARTED RIGHT UP after I did that. Blue distributor cap on the way. I would be lost without the wizards in this forum ahahaha
I have started to also get occasional backfires while cranking it, as well as occasional clunks. No start still. Pretty sure it has to be something ignition or timing related. My neighbor mentioned a worn starter, but would that make it backfire? I’m starting to think it’s a slipped timing...
I should mention that when I did that test, the coil wire was plugged into the cap and not the ignition coil. Because of this, I wanna say the cap and rotor are good for now. Should I repeat this test with it plugged in oppositely?
It has to be something that, if it went bad, would make all 8...
Good news, ignition coil does spark. So does that mean that the rest of the ignition system is fine, just the spark isn’t getting to the plugs? Or could it still be a cam/crank sensor?
I’ll try the coil method, should I also unplug the electrical connection for the coil and the ignition module? I heard it can be hard on them to crank with distributor wires unplugged.
All the sensors that the scanner would display data for (with KOEO) seem to be giving good readings. Yes distributor spins when you crank it. And starter fluid doesn’t seem to help it, so that rules out a fuel delivery issue.