Upping the stall speed on my 96 4l60e 4x4

[jmt61]

So with the addition of 285's and my 5.0 on 3.42 gears, my truck is nothing to write home about pulling away from a stop sign lol! The truck was grandpa owned and has had two transmission fluid changes in its short 100k life so I'm going to leave the internals alone of my transmission and probably install a higher stall converter.

Summit racing is literally 15 minutes away from me, the guy at the counter recommended a deep pan, aux cooler, and a B&M 2,000 rpm tork master stall converter. Has anybody had any drive ability issues with installing this converter? I dont launch the truck but shes an absolute dog off the line. I know a re-gear will help but i'm wanting to do some transmission maintenance anyways so its the perfect time to slide it back and install an upgraded converter.

 

[rhino]

I don't think going up in stall is really going to be that big of a difference. I doubt you would even be able to tell with that setup.

 

[99'Subourbon]

I plan on running a 2200 torque converter when I actually replace my transmission, but that's with a slightly modded 350. People say good things about the s10 converter swap.

 

[slowburb]

A looser torque converter will help. It will not substitute for a gear swap though. What is the diameter of your 285's?

 

[mr98z71]

It will be useless buying a high stall converter unless you buy a cam. Install a cam with a power band of 1500-5500 then install you 2000 stall, your current cam has low end torque to help you get a load moving when towing, installing a higher 2000 rpm stall with a cam that makes peak power at 800 rpm will be a waste of your time/ money.

 

[slowburb]

It will be useless buying a high stall converter unless you buy a cam. Install a cam with a power band of 1500-5500 then install you 2000 stall, your current cam has low end torque to help you get a load moving when towing, installing a higher 2000 rpm stall with a cam that makes peak power at 800 rpm will be a waste of your time/ money.

I'm slowburb and I DO NOT endorse this message. I maintain that a looser converter will help. While your "powerband" with a stock cam may start at lower engine speed, the sweet spot where you're making peak torque is still north of 2400 rpm. The looser converter will help launch the truck with more torque and torque multiplication than a stock torque converter ever could. The slippage of the looser converter will generate more heat, and definitely calls for an auxiliary transmission cooler.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

If off the line performance is what you're after, you want a looser converter, something up around 24-2600. The 305 will stall it less, most are rated for 350's.

I will say, any 4x4 I have that get's a converter, get's a lower stall speed, for wheeling. But horses for courses.

 

[slowburb]

I'll add that an S10 (B29) converter would definitely fit the bill here.

 

[Jacob]

Since you have a vehicle that is set up for gas mileage with a 305 you need to come to grips with the fact that it isn't going to be fast off the line. You could make it better but the time and money would be better spent on a motor and gear upgrade if you wanna go fast.

I am cynical though. I find it funny when people get mad that you don't launch at every stoplight.

 

[SAATR]

So with the addition of 285's and my 5.0 on 3.42 gears, my truck is nothing to write home about pulling away from a stop sign lol! The truck was grandpa owned and has had two transmission fluid changes in its short 100k life so I'm going to leave the internals alone of my transmission and probably install a higher stall converter.

Summit racing is literally 15 minutes away from me, the guy at the counter recommended a deep pan, aux cooler, and a B&M 2,000 rpm tork master stall converter. Has anybody had any drive ability issues with installing this converter? I dont launch the truck but shes an absolute dog off the line. I know a re-gear will help but i'm wanting to do some transmission maintenance anyways so its the perfect time to slide it back and install an upgraded converter.

I put a small stall converter (2200 or 2400, can't remember) when I had my trans rebuilt. It certainly has helped the beast get moving off the line, but has its caveats. Namely, you will lose some economy around town, and you will need to (at minimum) install a new TCC valve that eliminates PWM control of the clutch. I waited to do mine and had all kinds of hell with the computer partially engaging the lockup clutch. If you do a converter, get a TransGo 4L60E HD2 kit and install it. Go ahead and buy a new separator plate to install while you are in there, because I'm sure the check balls have beat the crap out of yours by now. A servo kit would be a great idea as well. Switching fluids over to a synthetic type Dex 3 wouldn't go amiss either. Something like Allison Transynd or BP Autran, essentially any Allison TES 295 spec fluid. It's price is on par with Mobil 1 synthetic, but it is great stuff held to a very demanding spec by Allison.