Tapping/ knocking noise on start up

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mike73

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Not a big expert, but I'l give you my .02.

Sounds internal, could be rod or lifter. You could drop the oil pan and check for play in the rods and you could remove the valve covers and check for anything unusual looking. Might also be helpful to use a dial indicator to measure lift- if one valve is less than the others, that tells you something is going on.

I had a '92 with a 4.3 that sounded somewhat like this- I dropped the oil pan and looked in the valve covers (didn't measure lift though). Couldn't see anything unusual. It did tend to go away under load, which is typically a rod knock symptom, but the rods felt tight. I ended up selling the truck, so I never figured out what was wrong.

Other possible (but less likely) causes could be a loose harmonic balancer, loose flexplate bolts, etc.

Another possibility is that it could be knocking due to low oil pressure (would need some wear in the rods to do that too, but maybe not enough to need a full rebuild if you catch this soon enough and change out the shells and the oil pump)- that would explain why it goes away while driving but comes back at idle. You could check this by using a manual oil pressure gage- I don't think the factory oil pressure sensors are always trustworthy on these trucks- some leak internally and then give a false reading.
 

_nickjoseph

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Not a big expert, but I'l give you my .02.

Sounds internal, could be rod or lifter. You could drop the oil pan and check for play in the rods and you could remove the valve covers and check for anything unusual looking. Might also be helpful to use a dial indicator to measure lift- if one valve is less than the others, that tells you something is going on.

I had a '92 with a 4.3 that sounded somewhat like this- I dropped the oil pan and looked in the valve covers (didn't measure lift though). Couldn't see anything unusual. It did tend to go away under load, which is typically a rod knock symptom, but the rods felt tight. I ended up selling the truck, so I never figured out what was wrong.

Other possible (but less likely) causes could be a loose harmonic balancer, loose flexplate bolts, etc.

Another possibility is that it could be knocking due to low oil pressure (would need some wear in the rods to do that too, but maybe not enough to need a full rebuild if you catch this soon enough and change out the shells and the oil pump)- that would explain why it goes away while driving but comes back at idle. You could check this by using a manual oil pressure gage- I don't think the factory oil pressure sensors are always trustworthy on these trucks- some leak internally and then give a false reading.
My check gauges light comes on when I stop but my stick is always full so maybe the pump is weak?
 

Eveready

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What flavor of oil are you running? If the engine is worn it might be time to go to a slightly heavier oil . If the lights come on at slow rpms it might be something to look at.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Years ago when we got a stuck lifter we'd add 2 cans of STP and rev the piss out of it for about 30 seconds. Sometimes it'd work, sometimes not so much, LOL. DTTAH
 

_nickjoseph

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What flavor of oil are you running? If the engine is worn it might be time to go to a slightly heavier oil . If the lights come on at slow rpms it might be something to look at.
It comes on when in drive idling but in parked it goes away
 

Eveready

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It comes on when in drive idling but in parked it goes away

That makes sense. RPMs would be a little higher in park. When you load the transmission in drive, RPMs would drop. I would sure start with a slightly heavier grade oil. My old Van (Dodge) had the same issue and that change helped. YMMV of course but it would be cheap to try. It could still be a lifter also. Please be sure and post to the thread if you figure out what it is.
 
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