Q: Rebuild/Replace TBI Fuel Pressure Regulator

[LA2SD]

Great tips, thanks! I ordered the kit tonight. Should be here by thursday. Hopefully, the truck will get better gas mileage and run smoother when it's getting up to temp under load.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I was looking at the edelbrock # 3704, because it's the closest thing I could find to stock, without having to install a cam or new heads. But it's pricey, and I would have to tap the front accessory mount. I also read reviews about the cable and coil bracket mounts being off.

I didn't have to mess with the front boss, nothing goes there. The coil bosses work, you just have to reverse the brackets on the coil. The throttle mounts work fine, a little persuasion is all. I had to bend the brake booster vacuum line a little and make my own mount for the alternator bracket and extend the A/C bracket with 3 washers and a longer bolt.

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On another note; when you go to install the injectors, put the small O-ring on the bottom and the big O-ring in the body before sliding the injector sin place or you'll pinch them and bend to top plate when tightening it down.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'll second getting the kit with the spring. The spring in my TBI was rusted through.

 

[LA2SD]

Yeah, I ended up going with the kit that has a spring. The spring on it now looks like it has a patina from all the gas. I would also think that after a while, the spring loses some of its rebound and compression force? Idk...

 

[LA2SD]

I didn't have to mess with the front boss, nothing goes there. The coil bosses work, you just have to reverse the brackets on the coil. The throttle mounts work fine, a little persuasion is all. I had to bend the brake booster vacuum line a little and make my own mount for the alternator bracket and extend the A/C bracket with 3 washers and a longer bolt.

On another note; when you go to install the injectors, put the small O-ring on the bottom and the big O-ring in the body before sliding the injector sin place or you'll pinch them and bend to top plate when tightening it down.

That doesn't sound too bad at all. I'll have to double check my setup. I thought I had a stud coming out the front boss.

I appreciate the tip on the o-rings. I'm going to use a tiny bit of vaseline or motor oil to help slide the injectors into place, too.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm going to use a tiny bit of vaseline or motor oil to help slide the injectors into place, too.

Or this, like Franks Hot Sauce, I put that Sh*t on everything!.

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[LA2SD]

Or this, like Franks Hot Sauce, I put that Sh*t on everything!.

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Lol not a bad idea! I have a tube of that stuff too. I've used it on all kinds of stuff. Brake pads, cush drives, rubber boots. You name it.

 

[Steve A]

I think the manuals call for a little light motor oil on the injector o-rings but don't quote me on that. Also been seeing some ads for an orange color threadlocker, can't remember if it's Loctite or Permatex brand but supposedly it holds like red but lets you remove the fastener like blue. Don't know if a throttle body would be the best place to try it out but it would be a neat trick if it really works.

 

[Schurkey]

The quick connect had been replaced with a solid nipple by the PO, so I just replaced it with the same.

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Unless that "solid nipple" is restricted inside, it's a REALLY BAD IDEA to use them.

The OEM quick-connect has a coolant passage smaller than a quarter-inch diameter. Using a non-restricted nipple can pop the heater core at higher RPM when water-pump pressure adds to radiator cap pressure.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Unless that "solid nipple" is restricted inside, it's a REALLY BAD IDEA to use them.

The OEM quick-connect has a coolant passage smaller than a quarter-inch diameter. Using a non-restricted nipple can pop the heater core at higher RPM when water-pump pressure adds to radiator cap pressure.

Then explain to us how from 1986 back there was not a restricted nipple on SBC engine in trucks and cars and they never "popped" a heater core in hundreds of millions of miles of use in cars and trucks.