PowerStop front brakes?

[94burbk1500]

I'm just wondering if anyone has used the PowerStop Z23 brake kit and what their thoughts were on it. I put a similar PowerStop kit on my little S10 because I didn't want to warp the rotors while towing and I love them, but I would only do it on this truck if I thought it would help the overall feel of these ****** GMT400 brakes.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4751046&cc=1302466&jsn=455

 

[ima93chevyguy]

I'm running just the Z23 Front brake pads with everything else being stock.

Pros: VERY Little Brake dust (it's clear too; not black)
Good Hold
Good over distance
No squeel

Cons: Less initial bite than my old pads (generic pads)

I really like them but I did invest in them because of the brake dust reviews, everything else was a gamble. However i am surprised i just wish they had a little more initial bite.
For the record everything else about my brakes are stock including at least one warped rotor; so i can only assume these would be even better with a whole system. I plan to upgrade to something like what you posted and swap to a NBS Master cylinder.

 

[GarrettGmc]

I have them on my 99 burb an love em. I haven't had any complaints with them.

 

[someotherguy]

Pros: VERY Little Brake dust (it's clear too; not black)
...
Cons: Less initial bite than my old pads (generic pads)

I really like them but I did invest in them because of the brake dust reviews, everything else was a gamble. However i am surprised i just wish they had a little more initial bite.

Shouldn't be surprised, the whole reason for the pros/cons that you listed are because they're ceramic pads. Those are the expected results when compared to semimetallics. No black dust, less initial bite.

I've got their Z26's (similar to the Z23's) on the front of my 300 SRT8 loaded up in the Hellcat 6 piston Brembo calipers I installed. They work OK. I got them mainly so that the black dust wouldn't destroy my wheels. Before that I was running Wagner Thermoquiet ceramics, similar performance, still have them in my rear calipers. At the time I did the front upgrade I don't think Wagner had a pad for the 6 pistons..

BTW crossdrilled rotors are a waste of money = it's totally bling effect, no function.

Richard

 

[94burbk1500]

Shouldn't be surprised, the whole reason for the pros/cons that you listed are because they're ceramic pads. Those are the expected results when compared to semimetallics. No black dust, less initial bite.

I've got their Z26's (similar to the Z23's) on the front of my 300 SRT8 loaded up in the Hellcat 6 piston Brembo calipers I installed. They work OK. I got them mainly so that the black dust wouldn't destroy my wheels. Before that I was running Wagner Thermoquiet ceramics, similar performance, still have them in my rear calipers. At the time I did the front upgrade I don't think Wagner had a pad for the 6 pistons..

BTW crossdrilled rotors are a waste of money = it's totally bling effect, no function.

Richard

Are you sure about the rotors? In normal circumstances I might agree with you, but the main complaint about towing with a little s10 is warped rotors from excess heat, my s10's cross drilled rotors are killing it 2+ years later, no warp. I think it does help in extreme situations, day to day, not so much.

 

[someotherguy]

Originally the whole reason for a drilled rotor was to allow gases to exit from racing compound pads under extremely heavy use. If you've ever seen hardcore racing you'll notice the brakes can often literally glow red hot. Newer racing compounds don't need this nearly as much so the drilled feature serves more negative than positive as it can affect the integrity of the rotor.

Think of the rotor as just a big heat sink. The less material there is, the less heat it can sink. Being drilled removes a lot of material (and can also lead to cracks.)

What many people mistake for "warped" rotors is actually pad material buildup due to abuse or bad braking technique (standing on the brake at a stoplight after you just hammered them down hard getting there.) This will fuse some of the pad material to the rotor and create a high spot. Slotted rotors show an actual, real benefit in this case. Not necessarily in terms of abuse-resistance, but they are better about preventing buildup. In the SRT8's the early models came with smooth rotors, vibration concerns required a swap to slotted. They even retrofitted some cars within a certain age/mileage range.

Richard

 

[94burbk1500]

Originally the whole reason for a drilled rotor was to allow gases to exit from racing compound pads under extremely heavy use. If you've ever seen hardcore racing you'll notice the brakes can often literally glow red hot. Newer racing compounds don't need this nearly as much so the drilled feature serves more negative than positive as it can affect the integrity of the rotor.

Think of the rotor as just a big heat sink. The less material there is, the less heat it can sink. Being drilled removes a lot of material (and can also lead to cracks.)

What many people mistake for "warped" rotors is actually pad material buildup due to abuse or bad braking technique (standing on the brake at a stoplight after you just hammered them down hard getting there.) This will fuse some of the pad material to the rotor and create a high spot. Slotted rotors show an actual, real benefit in this case. Not necessarily in terms of abuse-resistance, but they are better about preventing buildup. In the SRT8's the early models came with smooth rotors, vibration concerns required a swap to slotted. They even retrofitted some cars within a certain age/mileage range.

Richard

Good to know