P0141 And P0161 Simultaneously

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df2x4

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Hey; if they have a bunch of miles on them, no harm in replacing. If the codes persist then you'll know to look further.

Pretty much my line of thinking as well. If I see either of those sensor faults stored next time I hook up the Tech 2 then that's the plan. Thanks for the input!
 

stutaeng

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I would check the resistance of the sensors at the connectors with a DVOM. You can inspect for any corrosion or frayed wires at the same time. I believe the 2 white or gray wires on the sensor are the heater circuit. I'm sure you can find what the actual resistance values should be online.

Do the O2 graphs look okay? I changed all 4 on my K3500/5.7 about 2 years ago, chasing a lean condition. Kinda of pain with the 4x4 drivetrain on the way. The O2 sensors I think were okay, but at that time did not own a scanner to look at the graphs. Just did the part canon deal. Anyway, might get a slightly better running engine if just go ahead and replace them. But I would still check them and fully determine they are faulty. I get mine on RA, as they have the best prices.

Get that Lisle socket tool and the thread chaser.
 

df2x4

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I would check the resistance of the sensors at the connectors with a DVOM. You can inspect for any corrosion or frayed wires at the same time. I believe the 2 white or gray wires on the sensor are the heater circuit. I'm sure you can find what the actual resistance values should be online.

Do the O2 graphs look okay?

Both excellent ideas. I would assume the O2 graphs are fine, the heater codes are the only stored faults. I can check though.

I don't think the post-cat sensors should effect how the engine runs at all but it might make me feel better if they're new. :lol: And good call checking RockAuto, with the forum member discount it actually comes out just barely cheaper than Amazon for an OEM sensor.

I am a lazy man and have a good mechanic so I'll probably just have him throw the new sensors in if I replace them. It can wait until the next oil change/tire rotation. I appreciate the links to the Lisle tools though, I may have to pick those up for future use. Looks like the perfect tools for the job.

Thanks for that link referencing the heater resistance too. I may throw the new sensor I already have on my multimeter just to see if it matches that 5 ohm spec.
 

Erik the Awful

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From what I was taught, the rear O2 sensors should just be a sanity check on the front O2s. They won't affect engine operation, but they will turn on the check engine light if the readings aren't right.
 

someotherguy

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From what I was taught, the rear O2 sensors should just be a sanity check on the front O2s. They won't affect engine operation, but they will turn on the check engine light if the readings aren't right.
They're meant to determine whether the cats are doing their job or not. Bad or no cats = rear O2 codes (catalyst efficiency below threshold yada yada.)

Richard
 

df2x4

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Some news, bad or good depending on how you look at it I suppose. I put the Tech 2 back on the Suburban today after over a week of driving without using the remote start and there are no stored faults. So I'm guessing this is an issue with the remote start system or it's wiring.

Time to find a new shop that does those, I guess.
 

df2x4

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So I had a moment of clarity regarding this situation earlier. I've mentioned in a previous thread that I have an intermittent issue with my EVO steering in both of my trucks. (Thread link here)

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/intermittent-evo-steering-issue-on-cold-startups.49573/

That issue is persisting even without me hooking a charger up, which has led me to the thought that maybe it's also related to the remote start systems (I have them on both trucks). So I've been driving both trucks without using the remote starts and guess what? No steering issues, and no O2 sensor issues.

So here's my new plan of action. I'm going to try and put my hatred of dealerships aside and take both trucks in to my local one. Key objectives being the removal of the aftermarket keyless/remote start systems and reactivation of the factory keyless systems, plus purchasing new fobs. The remote starts are nice but I don't really use them all that often anyway, and I'd rather have a setup that works properly for the life of the vehicles. The factory keyless systems never gave me any issues. I'm sure this is going to be expensive but I think it's the best long term solution.
 
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