OK SO Any1 Done This???

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jonstreet

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hey guys need a tip on the rocker arms. Just tighten them down till the don't move, like right at where they don't move. Put the intake back on and start the engine and then make proper adjustments?
 

TerryD

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You have to rotate the engine as you do it so that the rocket arm you are adjusting is on the flat part of the can, not on the lobe ramps.
 

superdave

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Loosen all the rockers until the push rods spin freely. You will need to roll the engine over until you get to TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder. The easiest way to figure this out is to trace the plug wire back from the #1 cylinder to the distributor. Note where that is and rotate the engine at the crank with a ratchet until the timing mark is at 0 and the rotor button is pointed at the spot where the #1 plug wire connects. You tighten half the rockers (google search will quickly tell you which ones). While spinning the pushrod with one hand, tighten up the nut on the rocker until the pushrod just stops spinning. Tighten an additional 3/4 turn (opinions vary on 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, or 3/4 turn...I do 3/4). Repeat this process for all the indicated rockers with the engine at TDC on #1 compression.

Now, rotate the crankshaft one full revolution and line the timing mark up at 0 again. The rotor button should be pointing at the #6 terminal on the distributor. The engine is now at TDC on the #6 cylinder compression stroke. Repeat the above process for all the rockers you did not tighten the first time. This will work perfectly and you will not have to adjust anything with the motor running.
 
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jonstreet

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Thankx Guys, I replaced 4 lifters and wouldn't you know 3 days later a lifter on the drivers side failed! I'm going to just replace them all, some of the guys at the shop said to just replace the broken ones then leave it alone, I've done about 5 oil flushes on this thing and I'm still getting lil carbon type dirt in the filter so I wouldn't say lifters are failing, their just getting stopped up. Hell of a Bee's nest I've got into. I think I'm going to just pull the engine and break it down and try doing all of them, if it don't work I can get a 4 bolt re-man from work for about 1100.00 after a core and just re-use my tin. Thx Again for all the help.
 

TylerZ281500

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whats the purpose of the 4 bolt reman? nothing special bout a 4 bolt in a stock type application, i would also say stop listening to the people at said shop, they dont seem to be the brightest, if you even slightly looked at the pic you sent us of your oil valley i could completely understand why you have debri floating around with such a sludged up engine.
 

jonstreet

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whats the purpose of the 4 bolt reman? nothing special bout a 4 bolt in a stock type application, i would also say stop listening to the people at said shop, they dont seem to be the brightest, if you even slightly looked at the pic you sent us of your oil valley i could completely understand why you have debris floating around with such a sludged up engine.
I just try to get everyone ideas and run with it, but i was really i was gong to just replace all of them but i had trouble with some of the lifters and started looking for a tool to help.and thats when they said " just fix whats broken, but the only thing they got right was I should have left it alone and now I got that crap floating in there. Your 100% right! As for the 4 bolt if I go that route I plan to keep the truck for a while, and the 4 is $100 more than the 2 bolt main...so why not if I keep it and start making it bit more performance based
 

jonstreet

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the tool for lifters is like 20 bucks or get a blind hole puller from your local homedepot or ace hardware or what not.
Thx will do if you really want that intake pm me I'd give it to you for cost just pay shipping. Thx again Jon
 

superdave

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Have you checked the compression on this engine to see if it is in decent shape ( even across all cylinders)? The crud in the engine gives me a lot of pause in trying to band aid it and keep it going.
 
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