Need help on sound system... (got some 10's) :)

[94bowtie]

So i just made a deal with a friend of mine, selling him my 86 K10 for $550 and 2 JL Audio 10" subs in already in a box and some other stuff. But my problem is, i dont know anything about car audio. lol.
I need to know everything i need to do and buy so i can put those things in, because the sound is lacking pretty bad in my truck. lol. All i have is the subs. No amp or anything. No wires. I dont know crap about that stuff. Any help will be appreciated, thanks.

 

[JJZ71]

Amp wiring kit - this will include an inline fuse, power wire, remote wire, RCA cables and ground wire. Run the power wire (usually red) from the battery through the firewall and to the amp location. The remote wire goes from the CD player to the amp and the ground is near the amp. RCA's also go from the amp to the CD player.
Need a box for the subs. If these are going in the '94, you can find a box to fit under the back seat or behind the front seat (not sure if your extended cab or not). Best thing you can do is find the box specs for the subs you just got (JL audio subs are awesome, good pick up) and build or have a box built. You can also go to a local shop or look on Crutchfield for a box. Knowing 0 about car audio, Crutchfield is a great place to go to. They will help you by walking you through everything.
Amp - find out what your subs can handle in watts (both RMS & MAX) and go from there to find the right amp. You can Google the sub by model # and find all the info. Look for something that will push the subs without blowing them. Again, Crutchfield can and will help you with this.
Some people will tell you that you need a capacitor, you dont unless you get real advanced.

 

[94bowtie]

alrighty. that helped me out alot already. thank you. and yes its for the 94, extended cab, and since i dont really haul people around, ill just put it on the back seat until i can make an enclosure to fit underneath it. and it wont be that advanced, i just want something i can turn up and go deaf for a couple of minutes. lol. well maybe not that loud, but close. ill check out the model numbers as soon as i can. thanks.

 

[sewlow]

Amp wiring kit - this will include an inline fuse, power wire, remote wire, RCA cables and ground wire. Run the power wire (usually red) from the battery through the firewall and to the amp location. The remote wire goes from the CD player to the amp and the ground is near the amp. RCA's also go from the amp to the CD player.
Need a box for the subs. If these are going in the '94, you can find a box to fit under the back seat or behind the front seat (not sure if your extended cab or not). Best thing you can do is find the box specs for the subs you just got (JL audio subs are awesome, good pick up) and build or have a box built. You can also go to a local shop or look on Crutchfield for a box. Knowing 0 about car audio, Crutchfield is a great place to go to. They will help you by walking you through everything.
Amp - find out what your subs can handle in watts (both RMS & MAX) and go from there to find the right amp. You can Google the sub by model # and find all the info. Look for something that will push the subs without blowing them. Again, Crutchfield can and will help you with this.
Some people will tell you that you need a capacitor, you dont unless you get real advanced.

Good info, JJZ71.
My suggestion would be that if Crutchfield recommends that you use an 8ga kit, spend the little bit extra & move up to the 4ga. More efficient (less resistance) & if you ever want to ugrade, you don't have to rewire again.

 

[JJZ71]

Sewlow FTW!
94BOWTIE - smaller the guage of wire, bigger the wire is around.

 

[94bowtie]

alright. i will do that. and i know the lower the guage the thicker the wire. so you guys suggest the 4 ga wire? i tried looking for the numbers on the speakers, but couldnt find anything. all i know is that they are JL Audio 10" subs. lol.

 

[JJZ71]

4GA for sure. The model on a JL (depending on how old) will be simular to "10W0". It will be 10 for the speaker size then the production of W0,1,2,3,4,5,6,
I have probably asked but where are you located? If it's close to Grand Haven, bring it over and we'll hook it up.

 

[sewlow]

4GA for sure. The model on a JL (depending on how old) will be simular to "10W0". It will be 10 for the speaker size then the production of W0,1,2,3,4,5,6,
I have probably asked but where are you located? If it's close to Grand Haven, bring it over and we'll hook it up.

Attaboy! This why we're all here. Learnin' & helpin'.

 

[JJZ71]

Attaboy! This why we're all here.

Thanks buddy

 

[Nvr2Low]

Also be sure to find out the ohm load of the subs. This will make a difference in which amp you run. Agreed with everyone else, run the 4 gauge kit. At our shop we don't even carry the 8 gauge kits anymore. When you run the power wire, use a grimmer through the firewall to protect the wire from any cuts/abrasions. Matter of fact, if you can get me the information on the subs such as ohm load and power handling, I sell power acoustic amps at my shop, and while they aren't the best as far as power goes, in 6 years or so of selling them I've never had a problem with them. I also sell kicker amps but they're a bit more pricey. Get me some information and if you'd like, ill sell you an amp at a great price and ill throw in a 4 gauge kit for you. Just let me know man, and any questions you might have, post them up.
--Josh
Also, when you run your power wire, run it down one side of the truck, and the remote and RCAs down the other to cut out any possible interference