Low Oil Pressure after numerous replacement parts

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Chase

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Posted earlier last week regarding the oil pressure in my 95 C1500 5.0, I've replaced the oil pressure sending unit along with the oil pump itself. Pressure shows strong when it first cranks up but after driving for about 5 minutes drops down to like it's nothing. Pulling into the driveway and parking the gauge went all the way to 0 and the "check gauges" light came on. Has new oil, gaskets, etc from swapping the pump. So I'm sitting here scratching my head and on the verge of breaking the seal off a fifth because at this point I have no idea what else it could be. Skeptical to drive it commuting to work in the event it tears up, but it doesn't bog down or anything like it was before with putting a new throttle body on it as well today so I'm just at a loss currently as to why in the hell it won't read strong.
 

east302

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Here’s the diagnostic for a low gauge reading on a 98. I’d guess it’s the same for a 95. It assumes that the oil pressure is actually correct and that there is no mechanical issue.

Installing a pressure gauge in place of the sender would verify actual pressure. Swapping out the cluster with one from a salvage yard would help rule out a bad cluster.

I’d try a different cluster and swap the odometer over if it solves it. Hope this helps.

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90halfton

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Did it have this issue before the new parts? If so I would say rebuild time. Things are too wore to make pressure. Lots of flow, no psi. Like east said, mechanical gauge will reaffirm your dash reading.
 

joep88cheyenne

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He has a gauge as he can see the pressure drop. I would see about getting another guage that can be attached and see what it says. Could be a bad gauge.

On my 97 the gas gauge needle went wonky and blocked the oil gauge from reading properly. It only would go to 40psi at speed.

I have a video of the needle acting up but on another device. I'll have to find that one before I can post.
 

RichLo

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like what has been said already, confirm that the reading is real with a mechanical oil pressure guage first.

and if it is real, you can baby that engine along for a little while so you can build funds to rebuild it or get a crate engine by putting heavier oil in it. if it is really that low, go with either 20w50 minimum or sae 50 or sae 60... not very good for cold starting but they will keep your engine alive for a few thousand more miles.
 

Chase

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[
like what has been said already, confirm that the reading is real with a mechanical oil pressure guage first.

and if it is real, you can baby that engine along for a little while so you can build funds to rebuild it or get a crate engine by putting heavier oil in it. if it is really that low, go with either 20w50 minimum or sae 50 or sae 60... not very good for cold starting but they will keep your engine alive for a few thousand more miles.

QUOTE="RichLo, post: 1007057, member: 11963"]like what has been said already, confirm that the reading is real with a mechanical oil pressure guage first.

and if it is real, you can baby that engine along for a little while so you can build funds to rebuild it or get a crate engine by putting heavier oil in it. if it is really that low, go with either 20w50 minimum or sae 50 or sae 60... not very good for cold starting but they will keep your engine alive for a few thousand more miles.[/QUOTE]


Only oil I use is Castrol 20W50 on it, and an engine swap was a plan for the future. Honestly bought the truck to communte back and forth to work in to keep miles off a car I owe more on that its worth, but anyway long story short the stop and go traffic I'm in Monday thru Friday leaves me skeptical to drive it with the pressure as it is. But my plan is to slap a different gauge on it just to confirm readings are as they seem from the dash. Going to try an oil sensor as a last resort but I'm pretty sure the previous people who drove the truck before me did a number on it with their driving habits. Like I said I anticipated rebuilding the motor at the point going into buying the truck, just not this soon.
 

evilunclegrimace

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If it doesn't smoke and runs fairly well just drop the pan and roll some fresh bearings in to it and drive it. New bearings, pan gasket, oil, filter and some plastic gauge will cost under $300.00 and you should be able to do it on a weekend.
 

RichLo

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ok, if thats real pressure with 20/50 already in it then thats really not good. I would say straight 60weight with a quart of Lucas and a quart of Motorkote.... If you want to keep driving it for another couple months.
 

Chase

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ok, if thats real pressure with 20/50 already in it then thats really not good. I would say straight 60weight with a quart of Lucas and a quart of Motorkote.... If you want to keep driving it for another couple months.

Thats with a quart of Lucas in it as well. Ill more than likely just end up selling it considering I've done sank into it more than what I bought it for because honestly this is more than I bargained for this soon.
 
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