Hooked up battery backwards

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89chevy4scrap

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GTG, I just pulled this Caution out of the '89 Service, Driveability, & Emissions manual:

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If the key was on when the battery was connected backwards odds are the computer is smoked.
Even if the key was OFF, there is still 'Hot At All Times' power on a separate pin that's used to to keep
the contents of long-term fuel trim data and error codes stored in the computer's volatile memory intact.

In other words, reversing the power is going to be visited upon the computer internals, through 1 or more
power pins. Now to find out if the '89 ECM is diode protected in it's internal power supply to help protect it
against this type of human error during maintenance. :-(




No problem. Everyone in here wants to help others keep their GMT400 on the road as a
reliable traveling companion. But in order for us to help you remotely, we are literally all going
to have to be on the same page in the relevant FSM.

I've attached a couple of screen snaps showing that Section 3 of the '89 Service, Driveability,
& Emissions Manual is where we need to be in order to follow the factory troubleshooting flowcharts.
Thanks to the contributions of fellow members in this forum, you have the ability to download these
Factory Service Manuals for free. If you haven't done so already, please take advantage of this
opportunity to give yourself the best documentation available: ('88+ GMT400 FSM download links)

So, we need to regain the ability to start the truck asap. A quick common sense check to
see if your computer is still with us is to turn the key to the ON position & see if the SES
light comes on steady. (It's supposed to, allows a bulb check for you/mechanic/inspection station.)

If the light comes on, then I would proceed to shorting Pin A to Pin B on the ALDL, and see
if the computer is healthy enough to flash error codes via the SES light. (At a mininum, 3
flashing 12 codes saying all power-up diags passed.) If there are error codes, then of course
we start off by fixing the obvious.

And if the SES light doesn't come on, then we need to verify all the power to the computer.
(Following FSM guidance & wiring diagrams.) And since you mentioned your trouble light, I know
that base is covered. But if you don't already have a trustworthy multimeter then you
need to add this to your tool kit. Some stuff will be +12V, others will be regulated +5v
for use by the sensors, etc.

More to follow. Obviously if you take this to a shop (assuming that they would even take it on)
then the price to troubleshoot all this would be a nontrivial amount of money. But if you
are up to learning all this, then get those manuals downloaded and between the all of us we
should be able to start with the recovery process.

Hope this helps. Been there, toasted that, so I have empathy for the predicament that you
find yourself in.

Best of luck! Let us know what you discover & we will go from there.
Just hooked the battery back up and… no SES light. I am going to to my best to follow the service manuals and get this fixed myself. I do have a multimeter but it is giving me trouble now too of course (when it rains it pours), it shows overload even when trying to test my 12v battery no matter what range it’s in. Might head to Canadian tire after work tomorrow and pick up a new one to start my troubleshooting. Can’t say enough how thankful I am for everyone taking time out of there day to try and point me in the right direction.
 

89chevy4scrap

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Just going to throw this out there, have seen the inexperienced do this and fry the ecm before the fuses/fuse links burn.(not chevy's only) Bassackwards voltage spikes don't do the ecm or other parts on the electrical system such as ICM, alternator diodes etc. any good. I would be inclined to hook up a scanner and check ecm function, communication, etc.
I would love to hook a scanner up but I’ve had trouble finding a obd1 scanner anywhere online. Do you know of anywhere I could find one for a not outrageous price.
 

89chevy4scrap

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Another thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is most control modules have a moderately sized electrolytic capacitor on the battery input lines to help filter the input voltage a bit, and those don't like to be reverse-polarized... They tend to explode. Especially given their age at this point... Hopefully not the case here but just throwing it out there.
I’ll do some research on that and see if I can test that. I’ll update on what I find. I Appreciate the input.
 

89chevy4scrap

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Just posted this in another thread and obviously doesn’t help you now. But, going forward, I couldn’t recommend this any more. One of the best mods I’ve done for many reasons.
Battery Disconnect
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Having this while diagnosing your current situation would be helpful.
Will definitely be looking into one of them ASAP.
 

Erik the Awful

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I ended up making the mistake of hooking off the battery up backwards.
It's a little late, but I'm a big fan of visual clues. If your positive cable is black, put a two-inch piece of red heat shrink tubing over the end as a clear visual. If you need to, also tape off around the positive terminal on the battery and spray paint it red.

That reminds me, I need to buy some red heat shrink tubing.
www.amazon.com/Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Marine-Shrink/dp/B075QZTCSW/
 

89chevy4scrap

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It's a little late, but I'm a big fan of visual clues. If your positive cable is black, put a two-inch piece of red heat shrink tubing over the end as a clear visual. If you need to, also tape off around the positive terminal on the battery and spray paint it red.

That reminds me, I need to buy some red heat shrink tubing.
www.amazon.com/Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Marine-Shrink/dp/B075QZTCSW/
Definitely a great idea that I’ll be looking into, so far I’ve put a big red plus with a paint marker on the positive side of my battery.
 

Caman96

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Definitely a great idea that I’ll be looking into, so far I’ve put a big red plus with a paint marker on the positive side of my battery.
The battery disconnect works flawlessly and eliminates any issues with mixing cables up. Install it once and safely disconnects. No loosening and then re-tightening, which eventually ruins any connection.
 
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